!l850^m>.SiXTY Years Amo^gThe Roses! 



1909 



Field scene at The Dingee & Conaxd Co. Young plants of Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora, see page 100 



are kept cut off and the plants pruned in to induce new shoots being thrown out, which produces the 

 flowers. The average planter is extremely timid in pruning because he is afraid of the injury it will 

 possibly do. This idea should be discarded, because, as we have said, the pruning of all Roses is bene- 

 ficial. 



The different varieties of Roses differ very much in habit of growth; many are neat and compact, 

 requiring little or no trimming, while others of the same class are vigorous and straggling, sending 

 out long shoots which tend to outrun the limits assigned them. Pruning, therefore, is a matter to 

 be governed by the judgment of the possessor of the plants. We will add, however, that plants of 

 persistent growth should be trimmed back each fall or in early spring about one-half to two-thirds 

 of the season's growth. Where plants, apparently healthy, fail to mature the buds which they bear, 

 remove a large percentage of the undeveloped buds and imperfect blooms and prune severely. Also 

 trim back about one-third, when, after planting, they shed their leaves and exhibit signs of weakness; 

 this gives the roots a chance to become vigorous. 



INSECTS AND INSECTICIDES. Healthy, vigorous Roses are less liable to the ravages of insects 

 than weak specimens which do not have the vitality to resist the onslaughts of the pernicious para- 

 sites. Our Roses are singularly free from insects, owing to their vigor, but should they become in- 

 fested, a few applications of a good insecticide will exterminate them at the outset, after which very 

 little or no trouble will be experienced. One of the most common of insects is the green-fly, which 

 will be found usually on Roses of weak growth. We, at times, find them attacking our Roses, but they 

 are readily removed by syringing with clear water or smoking with tobacco stems, but where these 

 accessories are not to be had, we recommend kerosene emulsion or tobacco insecticide soap, which, 

 when applied with a Tyrian Sprinkler, will usually destroy them effectually. 



The red spider is an insect so small that it is not discernible to the naked eye, infesting the under- 

 side of the foliage, and turning it, as a rule, an unhealthy coppery red color. Where the plant is in 

 vigorous growth, this insect is not to be found to any appreciable extent, except on the old foliage, 

 which can be removed, but, should it attack the growing foliage, frequent syringing with the insec- 

 ticides named above, should be resorted to. The rose hoppers or thrips are not so prevalent, and a 

 syringing will effectually exterminate the Rose-hopper, while the leaf rollers, which resemble 

 butterflies, of yellowish white color, roll themselves up in the leaves of the Roses, and can be picked 

 off by hand. The Rose bug is common in some localities and which appears during the early growing 

 season, is one of the most pernicious insects and can only be removed by vigilant and unceasing 

 syringing with insecticides. 



Rose grubs, which live in the ground, where they hatch out innumerable offspring, are found 

 only in some localities, but they are very destructiye, feeding on the roots of the Roses, and before 

 one knows that the plant has been destroyed they have accomplished their work. The only remedy 

 is to dig into the ground and destroy them. If the soil is continuously affected with them, a good coat- 

 ing of air-slaked lime spaded in well will prove helpful. We receive quite a few complaints of the 

 foliage of Roses being covered with a white flour-like substance, and asking for a remedy. This is 



12 



