mildew, which some varieties are subject to, notably Crimson Rambler after it has finished its period 

 of bloom. Mildew does not seriously damage, but makes the plant unsightly. The remedy is to dust 

 the foliage in the morning while the dew is yet upon it with flowers of sulfur, which may be had at 

 almost any grocen,^ or drug store. A few applications will suffice to kill the mildew effectually. The 

 following recipes and preparations are good. They should be applied both to the upper and under 

 surface of the foliage by means of a good sprinkler. We can supply the Tyrian Plant .Sprinkler, the 

 Auto-Spray and Xew Era Sprayer at prices given elsewhere in this book. All of these are inexpensive 

 and very satisfactory. 



Kerosene Emulsion. To two parts of kerosene add one of slightly sour milk; agitate until the 

 compound unites in the form of a white jelly: dilute with twenty parts of soft water. 



Tobacco Solution. Made by boiling the leaves or stems of tobacco. The liquid should Ije made 

 about the strength of weak tea. 



Tobacco Insecticide Soap. This preparation is put up in cakes, with directions for use printed 

 on labels. It is a standard remedy, and one of the best. Two sizes. Price 13 cts. and 28 cts. each, 

 postpaid. 



WINTER PROTECTION. As to the classes of Roses that are hardy and those that are not hardy, 

 this information is given in the introduction of the individual classes. Where it is possible, we would 

 advise that the benefit of the doubt be given by protecting all varieties, irrespective of the class, for it 

 will not be harmful to protect even the Moss or Hybrid Perpetual Rose. Do not cover your plants too 

 soon; a nip of frost will not hurt them, but will help to ripen and mature them. Such material as 

 leaves, hay, straw, light manure, street sweepings, pine or cedar boughs, corn fodder, etc., will afford 

 excellent protection= Sufficient should be given to prevent the roots from freezing, but considerable 

 light and circulation of air should not be excluded. In the spring, wait until the weather is settled 

 before uncovering; then prune the plants, taking care to cut off all dead or discolored wood. 



WHAT THE TERM "HARDY" MEANS. Right here let us make it plain that the hardiness of 

 any Rose is a matter which no one can speak of with positive certainty, because the conditions of the 

 winter, as a rule, prescribe the hardiness of the plant. Where the winters come on gradually, the plant 

 goes into a semi-dormant state naturally, and if the winter be continuously cold, then the most ten- 

 der Roses very often survive; but when, as is frequently the case, an unseasonable cold snap comes in 

 the early fall, followed again by warm weather, the plant is not sufficiently hardened to withstand 

 the sudden change, and if this is followed by what we know as an open winter, where the weather is 

 alternating periods of severe weather, followed by thawing, it is then that the damage is done, be- 

 cause it keeps the plant in a vacillating condition, between the two extremes, and not only the young 

 eyes near the roots, but the roots themselves are seriously injured. This condition can be, in a mea- 

 sure, controlled, by careful protection, but we make this explanation in response to a great many 

 letters which come to us stating that we recommend a Rose as hardy, which has been winter-killed. 



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Hedge of Honeysuckles on The Dingee & Conard Co.'s grounds, see page 96 



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