Dingee Roses and How to Grow Them 



The Best Varieties for Different Sections of the Country 



ALL DINGEE ROSES are propagated under such 

 favorable conditions that our shibboleth, "Dingee 

 Roses Go and Grow Everywhere," is literally 

 true; but common sense tells us that certain kinds of 

 Roses thrive better in some localities than in others. 

 We are often asked our opinion upon this one point, 

 and in order to give our friends a guide for them to 

 follow we have tried to indicate as nearly as possible, 

 in connection with the different classes of Roses, the 

 section of the country in which each will thrive to its 

 full perfection with the least amount of protection. 



But it must not be understood, because we prefer a 

 certain class for one locality, that it will not do well in 

 others. For instance, we recommend all the Hybrid 

 Perpetuals for planting in the extreme northern states 

 and Canada, and yet these same varieties grow to great 

 size and beauty in Florida and Texas. On the other 

 hand, we state that some of the Tea Roses are best for 

 southern planting; but by careful protection they may 

 be grown successfully in Canada. 



Preparation of Beds 



To get the best results from Roses when planted in 

 beds is to make a trench to a depth of 15 to 18 inches, 

 that is, the soil should be removed to the depth, well 

 pulverized and mixed with from one-third to one- 

 fourth of its bulk with well rotted animal manure, cow 

 stable manure preferable where it can be obtained. Be- 

 fore filling in the bed it is well to put in some material 

 for drainage, such as soft coal cinders, broken crock- 

 ery or stones, not too large. Then return the soil to 

 the trench, and when returned it should stand from S 

 to 4 inches higher than the surrounding ground, as it 

 will quickly settle below the surface. It is neces- 

 sary to do this, in order that the rain water will 

 drain quickly away from the bed. If, however, the soil 

 you remove from the trench is not the best Rose soil, 

 as the best kind of soil for Roses is a clayey loam, 

 if your soil does not contain this it can be improved by 

 mixing in sods from the roadside or fields, but if your 

 soil is too heavy it should be lightened with a portion 

 of sand. The soil before returning to the trench should 

 be well pulverized, that is, make it as fine as possible, 

 and also the manure should be pulverized and not left 

 in chunks if you wish to obtain the best results. The 

 selection of your bed is a very important matter. Roses 

 thrive best where they can secure all the sun possible, 

 that is. do not plant them close to trees or shrubbery,, 

 as the roots of these extend further than the branches. 

 Select, if possible, an open situation, where the plants 

 will receive plenty of air and sunshine. It is not, how- 

 ever, necessary that they should receive sunshine the 

 entire day. A southeastern exposure is an ideal one. 



Fertilizer 



This is a question we are frequently requested to ans- 

 wer. Animal manure from one to two years old where 

 it can be obtained is the best. Cow manure is generally 

 preferred. Horse manure when new is very heating and 

 should not be used while in this condition, except as a 

 winter mulch. Hog, sheep and chicken manure are also 

 very useful. The last two, however, should be used 

 sparingly. Ground bone is beneficial, but should be se- 

 cured as fine as possible, and it should be used spar- 

 ingly. The best method is sprinkling a portion over the 

 bed until the ground is entirely covered, then with the 

 use of a fork it can be dug into the soil and thoroughly 

 mixed. You will also find an occasional application of 

 Bonora, such as is offered in this book, will produce 



good results. Air slacked lime is also beneficial, about 

 a cupful to a plant scattered on the surface in early 

 Spring and mid-summer. 



Planting 



As soon as the plants are received it is best to imme- 

 diately plant, yet if it is impossible to do this the plants 

 should be placed in a cellar or moderately warm place 

 and protected from the sun. Set them upright to admit 

 the free circulation of air. Water freely from time to 

 time. The roots should be covered with soil or burlap 

 and never be allowed to become dry. Soaking the roots 

 in luke-warm water or thin mud for an hour or two 

 before planting to restore their vitality is beneficial. Do 

 not set the plants too deep or too shallow. They shoula 

 be planted a little deeper than they were growing in the 

 pots before shipping. This can easily be determined by 

 an examination of the plant. The roots of the plants 

 should be spread out and not cramped. Give them as 

 near a natural position as is possible. Use plenty of 

 water after planting and shade for a few days if the sun 

 is hot, with newspaper or similar material, and if the 

 season is a dry one an occasional watering will be bene- 

 ficial. The best time to plant Roses such as we send 

 out, being pot grown, own root stock, is in early Spring, 

 as soon as all danger of frost is past and the ground is 

 warm and pliable, or, in other words, about corn plant- 

 ing time. This time, of course, varies with the location. 

 Here in Pennsylvania about the first of May is our plant- 

 ing time. Further North it is a little later; further 

 South earlier. February, March and April are good 

 months for Roses on the Pacific Coast and the far 

 South. This refers entirely to pot grown plants and 

 not dormant plants. By dormant plants we mean field 

 grown, that is, lifted from the field and have not made 

 any growth whatever. Such plants as these should be 

 set out earlier than pot-grown plants. Everything 

 considered, however, our pot-grown plants are, as a 

 rule, the most satisfactory. They are always on their 

 own roots, and when set out they have the advantage 

 of being equipped with strong, .fibrous, active roots, 

 which take hold and establish themselves in the new 

 soil almost immediately, and the risk of losing the 

 plants is very slight indeed, while with dormant plants 

 the plant is older, the roots very hard, and if conditions 

 are not just right they will not throw out new shoots 

 and take hold of the soil as the pot plants do. 



Pruning 



As a rule the Roses that we send out do not need 

 any pruning, being pot-grown plants. However, if the 

 bushes are more spreading than is desired it does not 

 injure the plant any to prune it back. This applies 

 only to the pot-grown plants. Where dormant or field- 

 grown plants are secured they should be pruned back 

 before planting. Pruning can be done at any sea- 

 son of the year with a certain class of Roses, but it is 

 a matter to be governed by the judgment of the pos- 

 sessor of the plants. The best time for pruning is in 

 early spring, just before they begin to break at the eyes. 

 Then it is well to trim Roses back to about one-third 

 to one-half the season's growth. The larger and heav- 

 ier the growth the more it should be trimmed. It is 

 sometimes beneficial in the Fall to trim Roses that 

 have made a growth of from 5 to 6 feet, soon after 

 heavy frost or hard freezing. They then should be cut 

 back about 3 feet to prevent loosening the plants by 

 the wintry winds. It also makes them easier to pro- 

 tect. No further pruning, however, should be done 

 until, as stated above, early Spring, just before they 

 begin to break at the eye, then the old wood should be 

 pruned back and all of the wood that has been winter 

 killed. 



