Hints for 



Su 



CCeSS in 



Startin 



3 seed 



PREPARING THE SOIL 



A rich sandy loam is well adapted to gardening. Other kinds 

 of soil are suitable, but stiff clays need plenty of fibrous mate- 

 rial and must be thoroughly broken up. Sandy soils generally 

 need additional fertilizing. 



When fertilizing is needed, well rotted stable manure is 

 always beneficial, but it should be supplemented by commer- 

 cial fertilizer containing a good percentage of phosphate and 

 potash. Wood ashes may be applied liberally to most soils. 

 For general use where manure is not available, a commercial 

 fertilizer containing 4 per cent nitrates, 12 per cent phosphate, 

 and 4 to 6 per cent potash, is usually best. Apply at the rate 

 of about 4 pounds to the square rod. 



Work the soil deeply and make the top three or four inches 

 as fine and loose as possible. Remember that much weed 

 killing can be done by hoeing or raking just before planting. 

 Do not work clay soils when they are wet enough to stick to 

 hoe or spade. 



PLANTING 



When planting seed, avoid disappointment and possible 

 failure by means of: 



First — A constant and correct degree of moisture. The soil 

 should always be moist, but never wet when avoidable. To 

 retain moisture after planting, cover seed immediately with fine 

 freshly prepared earth and press it down firmly and smoothly. 

 This firming of the soil brings the particles of earth into close 

 contact with the seeds, prevents drying out, and facilitates 

 growth. 



Second — The proper degree of heat. This is secured by 

 planting when the atmospheric and soil temperatures are most 

 favorable for germination of kind of seed that is to be planted. 

 The best temperature for each sort may be learned from careful 

 study of our cultural directions and by inquiry among the 

 successful gardeners in your neighborhood. 



Third — Covering the seed at the right depth. This varies 

 with different kinds of seeds and conditions of soil and can be 

 learned only through practical experience. 



Fourth — Proper condition of the soil. It must be loose and 

 soft so that the tender stems of seedlings can easily emerge 

 and the young roots quickly find plant food. This is usually 

 secured by careful preparation of the soil and by not planting 

 fine seeds when the ground is wet. 



CULTIVATING 



Stirring the surface soil during the period of growth kills 

 weeds, loosens the ground so as to encourage root develop- 

 ment, allows air to enter, and helps to conserve moisture. 

 Cultivation may be deep at first, but as the plants grow it 

 should be more shallow to avoid injury to the roots. 



STARTING PLANTS INDOORS 



Such vegetables as tomato, pepper, egg plant, and celery, 

 and many of the flowers can be started indoors. Shallow 

 wooden boxes three to four inches deep and convenient to 

 handle are suitable for this purpose. Use rich, loose soil and 

 plant the seed rows about two inches apart. Place the box in 

 a well lighted window and keep the soil moist. As soon as the 

 seedlings are a half inch tall, transplant to other boxes, setting 

 them at least two inches apart each way. Give the plants 

 plenty of sunlight and only moderate temperature so that they 



will not become spindling. Before setting in the garden, 

 "harden off" the plants by placing the boxes outdoors on mild 

 days, protecting them at night until they are able to stand the 

 weather without injury. 



HOTBEDS 



You can gain time and have early vegetables at small cost 

 by means of a hotbed. The construction is simple, and the 

 expense so slight that any gardener can provide one for himself. 



MANAGING THE HOTBED 



In using a hotbed the essentials for success are: 



1. Steady, uniform heat and moisture. 



2. Keeping the soil a few degrees warmer than the air above 

 it. 



3. Careful "hardening off" before transplanting to the open 

 air by gradual exposure to cooler temperature and by dimin- 

 ishing the supply of water. 



The greatest difficulty in accomplishing these three essen- 

 tials, probably, is overheating the air in bright sunshine. 

 Great care and watchfulness will be necessary to avoid it. 



Without experience one would scarcely believe how quickly 

 the temperature in a well built hotbed will rise to 90 or 100 

 degrees upon a still, sunny day, even when the temperature 

 outside is far below freezing; or how quickly the tempera- 

 ture will fall to that outside, if upon a windy, cloudy day the 

 sash is left open ever so little. A rush of cold air driven over the 

 plants is far more injurious than the same temperature when 

 the air is still. Again, in cloudy weather, a bed can go several 

 days without watering, but will dry up in an hour when open 

 on a sunny day. 



TRANSPLANTING 



In transplanting, either outdoors or from the hotbed: 



Take care to avoid injury to the roots in taking up the plants. 



Set plants out as soon as possible to prevent air from coming 

 in contact with the roots. 



Firm the soil around the plants so that they can take secure 

 hold. 



Provide shade to keep the hot sun from withering and 

 blighting the leaves. 



WATERING 



The best hours of the day to water plants are early morning 

 or evening. The roots, however, may be watered at any time, 

 One good soaking is better than many light sprinklings. 



COLD-FRAME 



A cold-frame is a simple construction of boards for wintering 

 young plants, such as cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, etc.; it is 

 also useful to protect and harden off plants from the greenhouse 

 or hotbed before fully exposing them in the open air. 



Select a dry, southern exposure and make a frame from four 

 to six feet wide and as long as required. The back should be 

 fourteen to eighteen inches high and the front eight to twelve, 

 with a cross-tie every three feet. The frame may be covered 

 with sash or cloth. Seeds of the vegetables to be wintered, 

 sown in the open border early in September, will be ready to 

 plant in cold-frames about the last of October. The soil should 

 be well prepared and smoothly raked before planting. Admit 

 air freely on pleasant days, but keep the frame closed in severe 

 weather. 



