DiNGEE RosEs'^^j Own Root's. 



HOW TO GROW "DINGEE ROSES" 



All Dingee Roses are propagated under such favorable 

 conditions that our shibboleth, "Dingee Roses Go and 

 Grow Everywhere," is literally true; but conunon sense 

 tells us that certain kinds of Roses thrive better in some 

 localities than in others. We have tried to indicate as 

 nearly as possible, in connection with the different classes 

 of Roses, the section of the country in which each wiU 

 thrive to its full perfection with the least amount of pro- 

 tection. 



PREPARATION OF BEDS 



The way to get the best results from Roses when plant- 

 ed in beds is to make a trench to a depth of 15 to 18 

 inches, that is, the soil should be removed to that depth, 

 well pulverized and mixed with from one-third to one- 

 fourth its bulk with well-rotted animal manure, cow stable 

 manure preferable where it can be obtained. Ref ore filling 

 in the bed it is well to put in some material for drainage, 

 such as soft coal cinders, broken crockery or stones, not 

 too large. Then return the soil to the trench, and when 

 returned it should stand from 3 to 4 inches higher than 

 the surrounding ground, as it will quickly settle below the 

 surface. It is necessary to do this in order that rainwater 

 will drain quickly away from the bed. If, however, the 

 soil you remove from the trench is not the best Rose soil, 

 as the best kind of soil for Roses is a clayey loam; if your 

 soil does not contain this, it can be improved by mixing in 

 sods from the roadside or fields; but if your soil is too 

 heavy, it should be lightened with a portion of sand. The 

 selection of your bed is a very important matter. Roses 

 thrive best where they can secure aU the sun possible; 

 that is, do not plant them close to trees or shrubber\-, as 

 the roots of these extend farther than the branches. 

 Select, if possible, an open situation, where the plants will 

 receive plenty of air and sunshine. A southeastern ex- 

 posure is an ideal one. They will, however, do well in 

 other locations, if given the necessary care. Roses do 

 better if they are watered in the morning. 



FERTILIZER 



This is a question we are frequently requested to an- 

 swer. Cow manure is generally preferred, and can be 

 used in fresh condition. Horse manure when new is 

 xery heating and should not be used while in this condi- 

 tion, except as a winter mulch. Hog, sheep and chicken 

 manure are also very helpful. The last two, however, 

 should be used sparingly. Ground bone is beneficial, 

 but should be secured as fine as possible, and it should 

 be used sparingly. The best method is sprinkhng a por- 

 tion over the bed until the ground is entirely covered, 

 then with the use of a fork it can be dug into the soil 

 and thoroughly mixed. Air slaked lime is also beneficial, 

 about a cupful to a plant scattered on the surface in early 

 spring and midsummer. A mulching of cow stable 

 manure is very beneficial during the growing season. It 

 helps to retain the moisture during the dry season, as 

 well as a food for the roots. 



PLANTING 



As soon as the plants are received it is best to imme- 

 diately plant, yet if it is impossible to do this the plant 

 should be placed in a cellar or moderately warm place and 

 protected from the sun. Set them upright to admit the 

 free circulation of air. When you receive them they will 

 be wrapped in Sphagnum Moss, which should be removed 



before planting, as it is used only for protection. Water 

 freely from time to time. The roots should be covered 

 with soil or burlap and never allowed to become dry. 

 Soaking the roots in lukewarm water or thin mud for an 

 hour or two before planting to restore their vitality is 

 beneficial. Do not set the plants too shallow. They 

 should be planted deeper than they were growing in the 

 pots before shipping. This can easily be determined by 

 an examination of the plant. If you receive them with the 

 soil on the roots in which they have been growing, do not 

 remove this soil. Give them as near a natural position as 

 possible. Lse plenty of water after planting and shade 

 for a few days, if the sun is hot, with newspaper or similar 

 material, and if the season is a dry one an occasional 

 watering will be beneficial. The best time to plant Roses 

 such as we send out, being pot-grown, own-root stock , is 

 in early spring, but the pot-grown rose plants may be 

 planted any time during the growing season, ]\Iarch 

 April, May, June, July or August. This refers entirely 

 to pot-grown plants and not dormant plants. By dor- 

 mant plants we mean f.eld-grown; that is, lifted from the 

 field and have not made any growth whatever. Such 

 plants as these should be set out earlier than pot-grown 

 plants. 



PRUNING 



As a rule, the Roses that we send out do not need any 

 pruning, being pot-grown plants. However, if the bushes 

 are more spreading than is desired, it does not injure the 

 plant any to prune it back. This applies only to the pot- 

 grown plants. Pruning can be done at any season of the 

 year with a certain class of Roses, but it is a matter to be 

 governed by the judgment of the possessor of the plants. 

 The best time for pruning is early spring, just before they 

 begin to break at the eyes. Then it is well to trim Roses 

 back to about one-third to one-half the season's growth. 

 The larger and heavier the growth the more it should be 

 trimmed. 



WINTER PROTECTION 



The protection necessary to keep Roses safely through 

 the winter months depends entirely upon the character of 

 the plant and the location. For such Roses as the 

 Hybrid Perpetuals, Rugosas, Harrison's Yellow, etc., 

 very little protection, if any, is necessar^^ in any climate, 

 yet it is beneficial in the cold latitudes of the North to 

 give them protection of strawy horse stable manure after 

 the first hard freeze. The soil itself is a good protection. 

 When protecting the Teas and Hybrid Teas it is a good 

 plan to mound the earth about each plant, or use clean 

 sand about six inches deep, then fill in between the 

 mounds with strawy stable manure, the coarser the better. 

 The uncovered tops may be tied up with straw or burlap. 

 This protection should be gradually removed in ]\Iarch in 

 the latitude of Philadelphia, or as soon as all danger of 

 hard freezing is over. The tender Roses may also be 

 wintered in boxes or pots of soQ in a cool cellar or heeled 

 in the earth itseK. Where you have a dirt floor two or 

 three waterings will be required during the winter, just 

 sufficient to prevent drying out. 



DISEASES AND INSECTS 



Mildew — This disease very frequently attacks the 

 fohage of Roses, especially the Crimson Rambler. It is 

 shown by a grayish crinkling appearance of the leaves 

 and usually occurs after a change in the temperature. 



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