STRAWBERRY CULTURE 



(Continued from page 16) 

 Care of the plants: A few weeks after the straw- 

 berries are planted they will produce blossoms. For 

 the regular matted-row system it is best to remove 

 these blooms since the plants will make better 

 growth. Hoeing and cultivation are necessary 

 practices for weed control, but much benefit can 

 be obtained by use of a good weed-killer. We rec- 

 ommend that you consult your state agricultural 

 authorities for recommendations. We have used 

 geese in our fields for weed control ; about three per 

 acre will do a good job on young grass. 



In northern states it is important to mulch straw- 

 berries for prevention of winter injury. Straw, hay, 

 or marsh grass are the best materials. It should be 

 applied in the fall when the temperature first 

 reaches 20°F and used so as to cover the plants to 

 a depth of 3 to 4 in. About three to six tons 



of hay or straw per acre is needed. As soon as new 

 strawberry leaves begin to grow in the spring, the 

 mulch should be removed so that only about an 

 inch remains. The rest should be kept between the 

 beds where it will help keep the berries clean and 

 free of rot. Even in the South many berries are 

 mulched to help keep them free of dirt and decay. 



Control of diseases and insects: Two soil dis- 

 eases: red stele and verticillium wilt, sometimes 

 damage strawberries. Below is a list of resistant 

 varieties. In our No. 17 issue of "Better Berries" 

 we have a chart showing control of diseases and 

 insects. And in our No. 21 issue there is a full 

 summary of strawberry culture. Write to Rayner 

 Bros. Inc., Box 1617, Sahsbury, Maryland 21801. 



For further details concerning strawberries contact 

 your county agricultural agent or write to your state 

 agricultural extension service. 



April 4, 1967 



My strawberry plants arrived in very good condition even though I live 3,000 miles away from your nursery. 

 I want to thank you for the 25 Earlibelle -plants you sent me for the 4 names I sent you. We thought you would 

 send us a cheaper varieties. The plants were all large beautiful plants — no culls. Even your catalog was 

 valuable to me. Mr. Francis W. Townley, Union, Ore. 



How to Choose the Best Strawberry Varieties 



Your choice of strawberry varieties depends, to a large extent, on the purpose for which they are 

 to be grown. Some varieties are especially good for fresh eating, while others are quite tart, but good for 

 long-distance shipping. Some are superior for freezing, and others are extra good for preserves. Some 

 varieties will give fine results in nearly any soil, while others require very good growing conditions. Some 

 varieties are resistant to diseases while others are susceptible. Below is a list of general strawberry char- 

 acteristics when grown under normal conditions. It must be remembered that excess fertility and other 

 conditions can greatly alter strawberry qualities. Thus, we strongly recommend that you try several 

 of the most desirable varieties and decide which ones are best for your particular location. Complete 

 descriptions of all our strawberry varieties are given in this catalog. 



CHARACTERISTICS OF SOME STRAWBERRY VARIETIES 



BEST FOR FLAVOR AND GENERAL HOME 

 USE: Redglow, Fairfax, Armore, Pocahontas, 

 Suwannee, Sparkle, Midway, Sunrise, Redstar, 

 Fletcher. 



BEST FOR LARGE SIZE: Armore, Robinson, 

 Jerseybelle, Catskill, Empire, Pocahontas, Vesper. 

 BEST FOR HIGH YIELDS: Catskill, Pocahon- 

 tas, Surecrop, Earlidawn, Midway, Sunrise. 

 BEST FOR FIRMNESS: Dixieland, Blakemore, 

 Pocahontas, Surecrop, Tennessee Beauty, Earli- 

 belle, Fulton. 



BEST FOR FREEZING: Midland, Pocahontas, 

 Dixieland, Redglow, Sparkle, Surecrop, Earlidawn, 

 Midway, Blakemore, Earlibelle, Fletcher. 

 BEST FOR PRESERVES AND JAMS: Blake- 

 more, Suwannee, Pocahontas, Tennessee Beauty, 

 EarUbelle. 



BEST FOR EARLINESS: Earlidawn, Midland, 

 Premier, Redglow, Sunrise, Earlibelle. 

 BEST FOR LATENESS: Armore, Sparkle, Jer- 

 seybelle, Tennessee Beauty, Redstar, VesDer. 



BEST FOR VIGOR AND GROWTH IN POOR 



OR DRY LAND: Surecrop, Robinson, Premier, 



Blakemore, Sen. Dunlap, Sunrise. 



BEST FOR RESISTANCE TO RED STELE: 



Surecrop, Redglow, Sparkle, Midway, Sunrise. 



BEST FOR RESISTANCE TO VERTICILLIUM 



WILT: Catskill, Surecrop, Premier, Robinson, 



Empire, Sunrise. 



BEST FOR RESISTANCE TO LEAF TROUBLES: 



Fairfax, Premier, Midland, Surecrop, Catskill, 



Empire, Redstar, Tennessee Beauty. 



BEST FOR VERY COLD CLIMATES: Sen. 



Dunlap, Robinson, Catskill, Sparkle, Premier, 



Midway, Fulton, Fletcher, Redcoat. 



BEST FOR FROST RESISTANCE: Earlidawn, 



Premier. 



BEST FOR SOUTHERN STATES: Albritton, 



Pocahontas, Dixieland, Blakemore, Surecrop, 



Tennessee Beauty, Earlibelle. 



BEST FOR FLORIDA: Florida 90. 



NO MATTER HOW 

 MUCH V0« vyi 



You will never buy berries as 

 own locality. \Vlth "shipped-in 



ood as the fresh harves.ts of your 

 )erries the quality and flavor can- 

 not match the vine-ripened perfection right out of the patch. That's 

 why more and more folks grow their own. Grow more! Save more! 

 Have more! 



BUY RAYNER'S PLANTS AND YOU BUY THE BEST 



