COMMONSENSE METHODS FOR GROWING 
GOOD STRAWBERRY CROPS 
WHERE WILL STRAWBERRIES GROW? 
They will grow successfully in every state in 
the country When they follow common sense 
methods, beginners are generally successful. 
WHEN DO THEY BEAR? Standard varieties set 
in March, April or early May 1945 will bear their 
best crop in May or June 1946. Everbearing varie- 
ties set in early spring produce berries in late 
summer and fall of the same year. Fall setting 
is not a good practice in most cases. 
WHAT KIND OF SOIL AND LOCATION ARE 
BEST? Any soil that makes good yields of garden 
or field crops will produce strawberries in abund- 
ance, whether that soil is a light sandy loam or a 
heavy clay. Here are some pointers. 1 — In rolling 
country a sloping field gives better air drainage and 
less injurious frosts. 2 — Run the berry rows across 
a steeply sloping field rather than up and down to 
help prevent erosion. 3 — Following a hoed crop 
makes less weeds and grass to contend with in the 
strawberries. 4 — Avoid sod land that may harbor 
grub worms which cut or injure your plants. 5 — 
Change the place of the strawberry bed every few 
years. It will help keep up the vigor and growth 
and reduce the danger of a build up of disease and 
insect trouble. 6 — A rank growth of weeds and 
grass on a vacant lot, garden plot or unused field 
indicates soil fertile enough to grow good crops of 
strawberries. 7 — Most important of all, select land 
that holds moisture well because (a) it is naturally 
springy (b) it has a low water table (c) irrigation is 
available or (d) because lots of organic matter in the 
form of animal manures or green crops has been 
incorporated in the soil. 
HOW SHOULD I PREPARE THE LAND? In late 
winter or very early spring the land should be 
plowed or (in small plots) spaded to a depth of 6 
or 8 inches. Then with harrow or rake it should 
be leveled off to form a smooth friable planting bed. 
Here are some things which are not necessary — 
but which are very helpful in getting bigger, better 
crops of berries: 
1. Plowing under in late summer a heavy growth 
of green crops such as peas, beans, clover, sowed 
corn, weeds, grass, etc. All these rot quickly and 
are much more valuable if plowed under while 
still green. 
2. Early fall sowing of rye or wheat to give a 
heavy sod to be plowed under in late winter or 
very early spring. This will be easier to handle 
if disced up thoroughly before plowing. 
3. Applications of horse, cow, hog or sheep 
manure at the rate of 5 to 20 tons per acre. This 
is the best of all preparation for a fine crop of 
berries. Results are almost equally good if one of 
these applications has been made for the previous 
crop. Poultry manure is better when applied to the 
previous crop but is helpful 'to current crop if full 
of litter and only three to four tons per acre are 
used. Excessive applicati^>ns of poultry manure 
may cause some burning especially in dry seasons. 
For small areas a good guide in the application 
of horse, cow, sheep or hog manure is to figure 
1 to 2 bushels for every 100 square feet. 
SHOULD CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS BE USED? On 
very fertile garden soils none is needed. On most 
good soils fertilizers will not prove beneficial if 
plenty of stable manure of any kind has been 
applied. On some soils chemical fertilizers will be 
very helpful. 600 pounds per acre of any fertilizer 
containing 3 to 6% of organic nitrogen and 5 to 
10% of phosphorus may be used. This may be 
stirred into the soil down the row before the plants 
are set or applied as a side dressing in one or 
m-ore applications after growth starts. Inorganic 
nitrogen like nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia 
should not be used in these applications as they 
will injure either roots or leaves if they come in 
direct contact. Organic nitrogen materials like tank- 
age, fish, dissolved bone, cotton seed meal, dried 
blood, etc., are safe to use. Any form of phos- 
phorus is O. K. 
Whatever the soil preparation and earlier treat- 
ment it is well to examine the plant beds in late 
August or early September. If the growth is satis- 
factory and the leaves have a rich dark green ap- 
pearance, no further fertilizer treatment is neces- 
sary. If growth is not satisfactory at that time apply 
as a top dressing directly on the plant beds about 
600 pounds per acre of 6-8-2 or any fertilizer mix- 
ture your dealer has containing 4 to 6% of nitro- 
gen, 6 to 10% of phosphorus and 2 to 5% of potash. 
Apply only when foliage is thoroughly dry and 
brush loose material off the leaves at once. This 
is important. 
An application of 600 pounds per acre means 
about 1 pound for each 20 feet of row. 
WHAT ABOUT LIME? If other crops, weeds or 
grass have made a good growth on the land you 
have selected for strawberries, it does not need 
lime. However, if you want to get scientific and 
have your soil tested for acidity a pH range of 5.7 
to 6 is best, 5 to 7 is satisfactory. 
WHEN SHOULD PLANTS 
BE SET? 
EARLY! EARLY! EARLY! 
The most important single thing in grow- 
ing strav/berries successfully is to set the 
plants EARLY. With no other crop that you 
grow is early spring so ALL IMPORTANT. 
In the Southern States this means February. 
March and early April. In the Middle States, 
March and April. In the Northern States April 
or the first half of May in late seasons and 
in states far North. In all states it means 
just as early as the weather permits you to 
get the ground ready and the plants set. 
A good stand and growth are easy if 
plants are set early so they can become 
established while the soil is still cool and 
moist. With late setting good results are 
very unlikely unless soil and moisture con- 
ditions are entirely favorable. 
