112 



SAN RAFAEL. 



more, for the hills on each side now began to close in and present the 

 appearance of mountains ; and I have no doubt that, though still going 

 down hill, we have begun to cross the second range of the Andes. We 

 could get no supper at this place. I was tired enough to care little 

 about it. Had Ijurra been with us, he would probably have found 

 something ; but he was absent, having dropped the compass on the 

 road and ridden back to look for it. The height of Chiquirin, by boil- 

 ing point, is eleven thousand five hundred and forty-two feet above the 

 level of the sea. 



July 14. — We had a pleasant ride down the valley, which opens a 

 little and gives room for some cultivation. There were pinks and holy- 

 hocks in the little gardens adjoining the cottages ; also cabbages, lettuce, 

 and onions. We stopped to breakfast at Caxar?narquilla, a village of 

 some eight or ten houses. The cura received me hospitably, and gave 

 me some breakfast. He told me there were one hundred and fifty souls 

 in the Doctrina. I should judge there were about thirty in the village. 

 The rock of this district is red sandstone and conglomerate. At six miles 

 further we passed a hacienda, where there were roses in bloom, and the 

 flowering pea, with wheat on the hill-side, and a grist-mill ; also, alfalfa 

 and maize. Immediately afterwards, a valley from the southward and 

 eastward joined the one I was travelling in, bringing its stream of water 

 to swell the Huallaga. Gypsum crops out of the hills on the road-side, 

 making the roads white. Houses here are whitewashed with it. A 

 mile further is the village of ITuariaca, a long, straggling place of one, 

 and in some places two streets. It contains about seven or eight hun- 

 dred inhabitants. I thought I saw more white people and more indus- 

 try in this place than is common in the small Sierra towns. We met 

 continually mules laden with tobacco, coca, and fruit, going from 

 Huanuco and the Montana beyond it to the Cerro. We stopped, at 

 half-past five, at San Rafael, an Indian town of some two hundred and 

 fifty souls, with a white lieutenant governor, and put up at his house. 



I had my bed made inside, instead of outside the house, which was a 

 mistake, as I was "pigging in" with all the family; and from want of 

 air, and villanous smell, expected to catch tabardillo before morning. 

 The thermometer was at 62° at 7 p. m., and I imagine did not fall 

 lower than 50° during the night; so that I could very well have slept 

 outside, and advise all travellers to do so, providing themselves with 

 warm bed- clothing. Here I was joined by Ijurra, whom I was very 

 glad to see, and the delinquent arriero, with his two mules. The height 

 of San Rafael, by boiling point, is eight thousand five hundred and fifty- 

 one feet above the level of the sea. 



