256 



THE SARAYACU BOATMEN. 



We had not tasted any since leaving Huanuco — now five months ; and 

 of course it was very welcome. On Christmas day he sent us a pair of 

 fine, large, sponge-cakes. A piece of these, with a glass of tolerable ale, 

 was a princely luncheon to us wayfarers, who had lived so long on salt 

 fish and farinha. It fairly made Ijurra grin with delight. We could 

 always get a cup of very good chocolate by walking round to the 

 Major's house ; and the only thing I had to find fault with was, that 

 I was always received in the shop. The Brazilians, as a general rule, 

 do not like to introduce foreigners to their families, and their wives lead 

 a monotonous and somewhat secluded life. 



An intelligent and spirited lady friend told me that the customs of 

 her country confined and restrained her more than was agreeable, and 

 said, with a smile, that she would not like to say how much she had 

 been influenced in the choice of a husband by the hope that she would 

 remove to another country, where she might see something, learn some- 

 thing, and be somebody. 



December 28. — We left Egas at half-past 2 p. m., in the rain. We 

 seemed to have travelled just ahead of the rainy season ; and whenever 

 we have stopped at any place for some days, the rains have caught up 

 with us. 



I now parted with my Sarayacu boatmen, and very sorry I was to 

 lose them. They were lazy enough, but were active and diligent com- 

 pared with the stupid and listless Ticunas. They were always (though 

 somewhat careless) faithful and obedient. I believe that the regret at 

 parting was mutual. Their earnest tone of voice and affectionate man- 

 ner proclaimed their feeling ; and a courtier, addressing his sovereign, 

 would have envied the style in which old Andres bent his knee and 

 kissed my hand, and the tremulous tones, indicating deep feeling, with 

 which he uttered the words 11 A dios, mi patron" They are all going 

 back to Sarayacu but one, who has engaged himself to Senhor Batalha. 

 It is a curious thing that so many Peruvian Indians should be working 

 in Brazil ; but it shows that they are removed above the condition of 

 savages, for, though worse treated in Brazil, and .deprived of the entire 

 freedom of action they have in Peru, yet they are paid something; they 

 acquire property, though it be nothing more than a painted wooden 

 box with hinges and a lock to it, (the thing they most covet,) with a 

 colored shirt and trousers to lock up in it and guard for feast-days. 

 With such a box and contents, a hatchet, a short sabre, and red woollen 

 cap, the Peruvian Indian returns home a rich and envied man, and 

 others are induced to go below in hopes of similar fortune. They are 

 frequently gone from their homes for years. Father Calvo complained 



