VOYAGE ON THE TAPAJOS. 309 



raised one of his fore-paws and seized fish, often of an enormous size. 

 These last, deceived by the noise, and taking it for the fall of forest 

 fruits, (of which they are very fond,) unsuspectingly approach, and 

 soon fall into the claws of the traitor. I longed to fire, for I had with 

 me a double-barrelled gun ; but I was alone, and if I missed my aim 

 at night I risked my life, for the American tiger, lightly or mortally 

 wounded, collects his remaining strength and leaps with one bound 

 upon his adversary. 



"I did not interrupt him, and when he was satisfied he went off. 

 The next day we passed the difficult and dangerous cataract of Apuy. 

 The canoe was carried from rock to rock, and I followed on foot through 

 the forest. 



"The farther we advance in these solitudes, the more fruitful and 

 prodigal nature becomes ; but where life superabounds, evil doejs not less 

 abound. From the rising to the setting of the sun clouds of stinging 

 insects blind the traveller, and render him frantic by the torments they 

 cause. Take a handful of the finest sand and throw it above your head, 

 and you would then have but a faint idea of the number of these 

 demons who tear the skin to pieces. 



"It is true, these insects disappear at night, but only to give place to 

 others yet more formidable. Large bats (true, thirsty vampires) lit- 

 erally throng the forests, cling to the hammocks, and, finding a part of 

 the body exposed, rest lightly there and drain it of blood. 



"At a station called by the Indians Tucunare-cuoire, where we passed 

 the night, one of them was bitten, whilst asleep, by one of these vam- 

 pires, and awoke exceedingly enfeebled. 



" In the same place the alligators were so numerous and so bold, and 

 the noise they made so frightful, that it was impossible to sleep a 

 moment. 



"The next day I overtook a caravan of Cuyabanos, who had left Ttai- 

 tuba before me. They went there to exchange diamonds and gold dust 

 for salt and other necessary commodities, and were returning with them 

 to Cuyaba. 



"They had passed a day at Tucunare cuoire, and had slept there. 



"Thinking that I was a physician, one of them begged me to exam- 

 ine the recent wounds of a companion. In vain I refused. He still con- 

 tinued his importunities, lavishing upon me titles of Seigneur and 

 Signor Doctor, as if he had been in the presence of M. Orfila. 



" I went with him. The wounded man was a young Indian, whom 

 an alligator had seized by the leg the night the caravan slept at Tucu- 



