132 



THE ROAD. 



and, properly treated, make good and serviceable travelling companions 

 Let them but be faithfully paid, a kind word now and then spoken to 

 them, and their cargoes rather under than over the regular weight, 

 (eighty-seven and a half pounds,) and they will serve faithfully and 

 honestly, and go singing and chattering through the woods like so many 

 monkeys. Above all, let them stop when they wish, and don't attempt 

 to hurry them. 



We had Mr. Nation in company. He had collected some valuable 

 plants, and showed me one which he said was a present for an Emperor, 

 and that its very name would make my journal famous. I of course 

 did not ask it of him ; but was very glad to be able to repay to him, 

 in some slight measure, the many kindnesses I have received from his 

 countrymen, by giving him a part of my bed-clothes, and making him 

 comfortable for the night, which he seemed to be much in need of, for 

 he was wet and sick ; and to sleep on the ground in that condition must 

 be very dangerous. There is much moisture in the atmosphere ; and I 

 find it almost impossible to keep the guns in serviceable order. 



We met at this place some Indians carrying tobacco from Tocache 

 and Saposoa (towns of the Huallaga) to Huanuco. Enterprising men 

 have frequently tried to establish a trade along this river, carrying 

 down cotton goods, knives, hatchets, beads, &c, and getting return- 

 cargoes of tobacco, rice, straw hats, rare birds, and animals ; but the dif- 

 ficulties of the route seem to have baffled enterprise. About two and a 

 half years ago Vicente Cevallos made a large venture. He carried 

 down thirty-five trunks or packages of goods, and the people of the 

 river still talk of his articles of luxury; but in passing one of the 

 malos pasos, or rapids of the river, his boat capsized, and he lost every- 

 thing. 



The Indians here had blue limestone, which they were burning to 

 mix with their coca. 



July 31. — I bathed in the river before starting. This is wrong in so 

 humid an atmosphere. I became chilled, and did not get over it for 

 some hours. A native traveller in these parts will not even wash his 

 face and hands before the sun is well up. Soon after starting we crossed 

 a small stream, and ascended a hill that overlooks the falls of Cayumba, 

 beyond which canoes cannot ascend. I did not see the falls, but am 

 told that there is no cascade of height, but rather a considerably inclined 

 plain, much obstructed by drift. Smyth says: "From hence, (the cave 

 of Cayumba, below the falls,) we had a very picturesque view of both 

 the Huallaga and Cayumba — the former rushing between two high 

 perpendicular rocks, and the latter rolling down a steep ravine. They 



