258 



CHRISTMAS IN EGAS. 



are either entire drones, or have become, in fact, the slaves of indi- 

 viduals. It is now difficult for the passing traveller to get a boat's 

 crew; though I have -no doubt that judicious and honest dealing with 

 them would restore to civilization and to labor many who have retired 

 from the towns and gone back to a nomadic, and nearly savage life. 



Most of the leading men at Egas own negro slaves ; but these are gen- 

 erally employed in household and domestic work. A young negro man 

 is worth two hundred and fifty dollars- — if a mechanic, five hundred 

 dollars. Major Batalha tells me that he will purchase no more slaves ; 

 he has had ill- luck both with them and with his tapuios. The slaves 

 desert to Spain, (as Peru, Ecuador, and New Grenada are called here,) 

 and he has lost six tapuios, by a sort of bloody flux, within the last two 

 months. I asked him if the disease were confined to his household ; 

 but he told me that it was general, and supposed that it was caused by 

 drinking the water of the lake, which was thought to be, in some small 

 degree, impregnated with the poisonous milk of the assacu, (the 

 Peruvian catao,) many of which trees grow on its borders. I have no 

 idea that this is the cause, but suppose the disease originates from ex- 

 posure, bad food, and an imprudent use of fruit, though I see no fruit 

 except a few oranges and limes. It is even difficult to purchase a 

 bunch of bananas. There are no other diseases in Egas except tertiana, 

 caught in gathering sarsaparilla on the tributaries. 



December 25. — We are very gay at Fgas with Christmas times. The 

 people keep it up with spirit, and with a good deal of spirits, too, for I 

 see a number of drunken people in the streets. I attended midnight 

 mass last night. The church was filled with well-dressed people, and 

 with some very pretty, though dark-complexioned ladies. The congre- 

 gation was devout, but I could not very well be so, on account of the 

 music, which was made by a hand-organ that wouldn't play. It gave 

 a squeak and a grunt now and then, but there were parts of the music 

 when nothing could be heard but the turning of the handle. There was 

 also a procession on the lake. A large, very well illuminated boat, with 

 rockets and music moving about, and a long line of lights on logs or 

 canoes anchored in the lake, had a very pretty effect. Processions of 

 negroes, men and women, with songs and music of tambourines and 

 drums, were parading the streets all night. 



The higher classes are taking a little Champagne, Teneriffe wine, or 

 English ale. Ginger beer is a favorite and wholesome drink in this 

 climate. I was surprised to see no cider. I wonder some Yankee from 

 below has not thought to send it up. Yankee clocks abound, and are 

 worth from ten to twenty dollars. 



