SILENCE OF THE ANDES. 



3 



opinion, she would certainly decide in favor of the Inca road, in pre- 

 ference to those found in Peru at the present time. These remains show 

 a width of thirty feet of rock pavement, with well placed curbstones 

 on each side. Where the road has considerable inclination, rows of 

 stone are placed across, higher than the general level of the pavement, 

 so that it appears like a stair-way on the side of a hill. That it was 

 not a coach road is no argument against it ; it was before the horse, the 

 ass, or the cow were introduced into South America from Europe. It 

 was constructed for the Indian and his llama, the surest of the sure-footed, 

 and, therefore, the improvement speaks well for the civilization of those 

 times of which we have' but a traditionary record. 



Passing over a p^,in on the mountain top, there was a cistern by the 

 side of our path, where water is caught during the rainy season to sup- 

 ply the thirsty in the dry. The rainy season commences here about the 

 middle of September — sometimes later — and lasts six months. The 

 remainder of the year is dry. 



Night had overtaken us where not a living thing was to be seen, 

 except a black eagle, returning to its roosting-place under overhanging 

 rocks, on the west side of a lofty peak. Our little tent was pitched ; 

 the baggage piled up and covered at the door ; the mules let free for 

 the night to feed upon the mountain grass around us. A fire was 

 kindled, and water from a small spring heated, and tea was made. Jose 

 produced bread and cheese from his saddle-wallets ; placed them upon 

 a clean cloth over a trunk ; looking into the tent, he says, very slowly, 

 " Seftor ! La hora de cenar" (Sir, it is the supper hour.) Both men 

 and beasts seem tired; we have ascended all day. The first day's travel 

 is always the most harassing. Our arriero, Francisco, a mestizo, is a 

 small, slim built man, with respectful manners ; he and his little son 

 Ignacio keep watch by turns over the mules. The little boy is out 

 while his father gets supper. The night was clear and cold ; the moon 

 shining brightly. The world is not so silent in the middle of the ocean. 

 I do not think I heard anything ; I almost listened to hear the globe 

 turn upon its axis. Long after the people were asleep, I heard little 

 Ignacio singing to himself, wrapped up in his homespun poncho, as 

 he follows the mules. 



At daylight in the morning we found heavy frosts and ice about us, 

 with thermometer 24°, and wet bulb 30°. The mules were loaded ; 

 breakfast over; observations made; and we off, soon after sunrise. This 

 is the way to travel at an elevation where we find no inhabitants. 



The mountains are becoming more rounding, aud covered with a fine 

 sort of grass. Shepherdesses are following thousands of sheep and lambs. 



