JUAJA. 5 



Indians. We met a number of tax-gatherers, going among the thresh- 

 ers, with silver-headed canes, receiving a measure of grain instead of 

 contribution-money. They are old Indians, very well dressed, with a 

 respectable, quaker-like air about them ; broad-brimmed hats and stand- 

 ing collars. It is an active time also with the priests, who go abroad 

 among the farmers for tithes. The valley is all activity, and merry are 

 the people. Women are visiting about from place to place, astride of 

 plump little jackasses. This is a plentiful season. 



When the crops fail on these table lands, the suffering among the 

 Indians is very great. Seeding time is in September, just before the 

 rains commence. If there are hard frosts in February, the chances are 

 that a famine follows. 



Crossing a small ridge on the east, we came in full view of the great 

 valley of Juaja, stretching away south. The snowy peaks are repre- 

 sented in a sketch from our camp near the town. 



Jose's wife and children came to the tent,. brought us supper, and 

 lucerne for our mules. One of the sons, a fine-looking boy of eighteen, 

 volunteered to go with me. Jose desired that I should let him go, 

 and I had no objection ; but when his mother came to ask me if I was 

 not satisfied to take her husband without taking her son and only pro- 

 tector, I referred Jose and her son to her. She settled the case her 

 own way, and gave me her blessing. 



Juaja has a population of about 2,500 inhabitants. I say about, 

 because there is no such thing as a census known at this, elevation. 

 The houses are built one story, of adobe walls, or of unburnt bricks, 

 and tile roofs. The streets are well paved, and run at right angles with 

 each other. A pretty little white-washed church stands upon the plaza, 

 where the women sell their marketing and say their prayers. The 

 Indians come to market and church at the same time ; Sunday morning- 

 is the great market day. A drove of horses are most miserable-looking 

 little rats; the horses of the lowlands and coasts are much their 

 superiors. 



Men live to a good old age in this climate ; 70, 80, and 90 years are 

 common; some have arrived at 120 and 130. I am under the impres- 

 sion that the Indians live longest. Mestizo and Spanish Creole girls 

 have been known to bear children at 8 and 9 years of age. 



The Spanish Creole population is small ; they are generally shop- 

 keepers, the only dealers in foreign goods, which are retailed to the 

 Indians at enormous profits. They travel to Lima and purchase goods, 

 which they use as an inducement to the Indians to work the silver 

 mines, existing three leagues to the east of Juaja, in the Andes range, 



