FRUITS AND FLOWERS OF HUANTA. 



23 



climate is pleasant. At 9 a. m., thermometer 60°. The fig-tree is very 

 large, and bending with fruit, while peach blossoms overhang the road ; 

 large clusters of green cactus shade the quiet little ring-dove; the 

 partridge calls from beneath the bailey beards ; the people are seated by 

 the shady brook in midsummer costume. Yesterday we were shivering 

 under a midwinter snow-storm, high up on the mountains. 



At the town of Huanta, my letters were handed to the governor, 

 who kindly gave me possession of the house of the sub-prefect, who had 

 gone, with his family, visiting about the country. Huanta has a popu- 

 lation of two thousand people. From the balcony we have a full view 

 of the plaza and the market people, with the hills in the back ground, 

 among which there are some rich silver mines. Many have been aban- 

 doned on account of water. People are anxious to receive silver bars, 

 but not over anxious about paying the necessary expenses for getting 

 them. The Indian finds great hardship and little profit, while he goes 

 with hammer and chisel mining out the rich metal. The Creole seats 

 himself at the mouth of the mine, wrapped in his broadcloth cloak, and 

 receives the treasure. The poor Indian prefers cultivating the soil, from 

 which it is difficult to persuade him ; force, at times, is indirectly ap- 

 plied through the influence and power of the authorities. The more 

 intelligent race take advantage of his ignorance. Some, who are very 

 intemperate, of course are generally very poor ; such are enticed to the 

 mines by a regular supply of chicha ; others, again, are taught to be- 

 lieve that to labor in this world for the benefit of others is to lay up 

 treasures for them in a better place ; they have a dreadful fear of tem- 

 poral powers, and dare not disobey. There are different sorts of 

 slavery existing among different kinds of free people. If obliged to 

 choose, many would rather be negro slaves in North America, than free 

 Indians in the South. 



The governor had our mules cared for, and invited me to his table 

 under the shade of the eastern balcony. He was a cheerful, agreeable 

 man ; if he knew how, no doubt would better the condition of those 

 around him. His fine, healthy boys are growing up in idleness, and a 

 pretty little daughter stands most of the day in the balcony watching the 

 Indians in the plaza, under their umbrella shades, selling fruit. She 

 pointed out an old Spanish Creole, said to be one hundred and five years 

 old. 



There are beggars and marks of the smallpox. In the ravines, along 

 the sides of the valley, ague and fever sometimes prevail, but, generally, 

 the valley is very healthy. The nights are cold and days warm. Du- 

 ring our few days' stay here, the twilight was followed by flashes of 



