28 



ICE-CREAM COUNTRY. 



Some answer serious questions affirmatively at the age of twelve years. 

 One of the first they ask is, " are you married ?" 



Sugar and vanilla beans are produced on the eastern side of the 

 mountains. Ice and rock salt are brought from the glaciers, in sight, 

 with cream from the valley. Ice-cream is made and sold by the Indian 

 women in the plaza. Our pistols kept bright, and burnished steel re- 

 mains in the open air without rusting. Grapes are not very fine in quality. 

 Goats seem to thrive better, and poultry again appears here. At din- 

 ner, seated by a lady, with large gold rings on each hand, and heavy 

 gold chains around her neck, supporting a locket and gold cross, it was 

 remarked that, those wearing expensive ornaments were supposed to be 

 wealthy. She, evidently pleased, asked me to help her cut her chicken 

 bones into tooth picks. Some of the dishes, cups, spoons, and forks were 

 roughly made of solid silver,g,hough there are thought to be few wealthy 

 people in the city. 



Breakfast is taken at from 10 to 11 a. m., dinner from 4 to 5 p.m. 

 If supper is taken, it is at a very late hour ; coffee is drank early 

 in the morning, and tea in the evening. Tables only are set twice ; 

 their meats are served in different forms, highly seasoned with pepper 

 and spices, generally accompanied with potatoes. Quinua, a native plant, 

 considered a delicacy, is also prepared in different ways ; the seeds are 

 cooked with cheese, or boiled with milk and pimento. 



On Monday, August 4, 1851, at 8 a. m., thermometer, 59°; wet 

 bulb, 54°. Ou* course stretches to the eastward again, over a dry, un- 

 interesting road, hedged in with cactus, bearing the Tuna fruit. > The 

 country is uncultivated, except in the valleys. Crossing a well-built 

 stone bridge, over a stream flowing northward, we passed a grist : mill. 

 Peach trees were in blossom, and some few flowers. After a ride over 

 these barren heights, the sight of a fresh rapid brook gladdens the hearts 

 of our mules. 



Matara post house is near a gorge in the range of mountains trend- 

 ing southeast and northwest. The potatoes and barley are of good size 

 here ; on the northwest side of a hill, I cut eleven stalks of wheat, pro- 

 duced from one seed, and counted four hundred and fourteen grains from 

 the heads of these sprouts. It is not unusual to 'see twenty stalks pro- 

 duced from one grain — eleven is about the average. These crops are 

 only raised after a careful system of irrigation. The Indians lead the 

 water from the heights to a great distance ; this seems to be a favorite 

 occupation with them. Wherever water can be had, there the soil 

 yields a rich harvest ; in other places, the mid-day sun kills the young 

 stalks. 



