REPORTS OF ROBBERS. 



31 



Jupiter by the naked eye, but we are not high enough for that yet, 

 though our sight is very good. The rivers around flow to every point 

 of the compass, and make it difficult to decide if the waters make the 

 winds, or the relative positions of the mountains alone cause these drafts. 

 The winds are very gentle, and curl the cirrus or hairy clouds in most 

 graceful shapes about the hoary-headed Andes in rich and delicate 

 clusters ; when the peak is concealed, all but the blue tinge below the 

 snow, we see a natural bridal veil. An easterly wind lifts and turns 

 them to dark, cumulus clouds, settled on the frosty crown, like an old 

 man's winter cap ; the physiognomical expression is that of anger. The 

 change is accompanied by thunder, and seems to command all around 

 to clothe themselves for storms. The cold rain comes down in fine 

 drops upon us ; the day grows darker, and the clouds press close upon 

 the earth. Our oil-cloth hat-covers and India-rubber ponchos were 

 admired at a small settlement. The children were at school under a 

 shed, pulling their bare feet under them to keep them warm ; they 

 looked as if they wished school was out. The people are better look- 

 ing as we travel south, and are more cheerful. A girl stowed Jose's 

 saddle-bags with fresh bread and cheese from a door-way, and said she 

 would rather travel than keep shop. Jose said his work was wet ; she 

 answered, hers was too dry. The road becomes very slippery when wet ; 

 it is best to have the mules shod for safety as for the comfort of the 

 animal. They worry very much sliding about under heavy rain ; some 

 of the baggage mules fall upon the ground. The flat lands are thickly 

 populated, and well cultivated. On the rolling mountains we come to 

 grazing again ; the flocks roam in the desert, where we pass the night. 

 At supper the arriero tells Jose, in Quichua, this is a dangerous country ; 

 robbers live in numbers*among the mountain -tops. They meet the 

 travellers at night upon this uninhabitable part of the road, and make 

 what terms they please. Their modes of attack differ. If they see the 

 party in day-time, and know the number, they come boldly up and make 

 their demands ; if they are in doubt, their guide comes alone 1 ; inquires 

 after the traveller's health ; requests a light for his cigar, keeping his 

 eyes about him. After expressing a wish to purchase, he returns to his 

 party, with a full report of his reconnoissance. Whether they attack or 

 not, the chances are that they will steal the mules at pasture during the 

 night. J ose don't feel at ease ; is anxious, after telling me the story, to 

 know what we shall do. The plan for the night was arranged. If 

 the guia comes, he was to be made fast to the baggage as soon as he 

 lit his cigar. Jose was to keep hot water at the fire ; one arriero to 

 sleep with a lasso at hand, the other to watch the mules. Should any 



