MESTIZO SHOEMAKER. 



33 



When I gave her money, the poor creature nearly bent on her knees 

 before us. My gun-cover wanted repairs; and while applying to a 

 mestizo shoemaker, with three or four apprentices, the sub-prefect joined 

 me. I unguardedly told him what I wished, and remarked that the 

 man had so much business he could not repair it in time, when I was 

 astonished to hear the sub-prefect order him in a loud and passionate 

 way to do the work. The shoemaker pointed to the large amount of 

 work on hand, and said he could not possibly attend to it ; when he was 

 at once ordered to do what he was told by the next morning, and to 

 bring it to the government house. The cover was repaired, and shoe- 

 maker paid. Afterwards I was more careful. 



There are abandoned silver mines five leagues south, one of which has 

 been re-opened by a North American — Charles Stone. I did not see 

 him, but understood he hopes to work profitably. 



The productions of the valley are maize, barley, wheat, lucerne, beans^ 

 potatoes, small apples and peaches, with a few chirimoyas of inferior 

 quality. The tanas fruit is very abundant ; the cactus flower beautiful. 

 The wine drank at the sub-prefect's table was manufactured from the 

 Yea grape. The wife of the sub-prefect was a very kind person. At 

 breakfast and dinner hours, ten to twelve poor Indians were sometimes 

 fed by her. She teaches her little son to treat them politely, telling 

 him to help them to water, &c. 



Entering the small town of Heronimo, we find all the inhabitants 

 bare-headed, on their knees in the streets and doorways ; church bells 

 ringing ; host on the way through the town. A padre walks, with 

 book in hand, attended by a man with a large umbrella to keep off the 

 sun. A number of women and men follow, uttering prayers. One of 

 them rings a small bell. We halted under the shade of a house while 

 the host entered the church. As the people rose, we travelled on. Six 

 leagues brought us to Pincor post, where we enjoyed a supper of wild 

 pigeons, six of which were killed at one shot. They are large, and very 

 like tame pigeons. The arrieros and Jose cooked them on sticks before 

 our camp fire. Here, for the first time, we saw a snake. The songs of 

 frogs are heard among lofty mountains. At 3 p. m., thermometer, 65°; 

 August 15th. Next morning at 6 a. m., thermometer, 38°; wet bulb, 

 36° ; temperature of a spring, 46°. 



On a narrow ridge, with deep valleys on both sides, we have a view 

 of snow-clad mountains to the east ; by the road-side an ancient fort, 

 called by the arrieros "Quramba." The arrieros (Quichua Indians) 

 expressed pleasure and surprise when they saw the sketch, wrapping 

 themselves up in their ponchos, and kneeling on the ground, looking on. 



