BULL FIGHT. 



39 



with a Peruvian widow, very good-looking, but who talked at a terrible 

 rate. Jose concealed himself behind a peach-tree full of blossoms, pre- 

 paring tea. She said she was poor, but had sons full grown, and that 

 we had taken her garden fence down, and turned eight mules among 

 her cabbages. Jose told her, when we arrived, tired, after a long march, 

 she was not at home to give consent ; her grounds had particularly 

 pleased us, and we had taken the liberty to enter them for the night ; 

 in the morning the fence should be repaired to her satisfaction, and 

 money paid for the use of her grounds ; the arrieros' mules should go 

 out, and ours be fastened and fed close to the tent, which was not among 

 the plants, but at a proper distance on our side. She, smiling, accepted 

 a cup of tea, and they spent the evening sociably together, in the clear 

 moonlight, with no sand-flies, and a westerly wind. 



Cabbage, salad, onions, and garlic transplanted here, do not thrive as 

 well as on the coast, and are less cared for than the potato ; except the 

 garlic, which is a favorite with the Creoles. Leguminous plants are 

 used in the chupe when nicely made. 



August 19. — At 6 30, a. m., thermometer, 53°; the widow's fence 

 being repaired, she received pay, saying " God bless you, good-bye." As 

 we rode off we caught Jose receiving an answer to his farewell smile. 

 At 11 30, thermometer, 70°. The country has a dry, uninteresting 

 appearance near the town of Mallepata, yet the animals and vegetables 

 seem to be in larger proportion. Flocks of parrots and pigeons increase 

 in numbers ; the sheep appear to be smaller in size ; horned cattle and 

 horses are plenty ; the mountains are lower ; sugar plantings more nu- 

 merous. Tall willow trees grow by the side of a stream we cross, flow - 

 ing south, and another running west, with milky colored water, which 

 the arrieros prevent their mules from drinking, saying it is not good 

 for our use. The people we meet look like Chinese in the face, and 

 dress like gentlemen of the olden time — short breeches, long coats, with 

 big buttons and large pocket-flaps, in cloth of scarlet and of blue. 



As we rode through the Indian town of Limatambo, our attention 

 was drawn to a crowd of people on the plaza, which was barricaded at 

 the corners, and seats put all around. Flags of different colors were 

 waving in the air ; drums beating to a singular noise of wind instru- 

 ments. We had arrived in time to see a bull fight. The matadores 

 were dressed like the clowns of a circus. People were busy receiving 

 and arranging large chicha jars by the walls. All were dressed, and 

 behaved well. The boys gathered round an enclosure with a door 

 opening into the plaza. The girls sat up straight on their seats, and 

 looked cheerful and pleasant. Among them all, I only observed two 



