cuzco. 



41 



rise to the top of a small gap, and pass under a large arch, which, 

 supports a well-built stone aqueduct. We halted, and gazed with delight 

 at the ancient curiosty of the New World — the city of Cuzco, centuries 

 ago the seat of the Incas. The view is beautiful. Close against the 

 hills, at the west of the valley, we see the ruins of the Temple of the 

 Sun ; Catholic church steeples rise amidst smaller buildings of a large 

 city. The floor of the valley is carpeted with green, while afar off, oppo- 

 site the churches, are the white snow-capped Andes in a clear blue sky. 

 Suddenly a heavy cloud came over the city from the south, and we arrived 

 in the plaza under a heavy rain. Entering the government house, I 

 found the prefect of the department of Cuzco very sick in bed with 

 "peste," (influenza,) attended by a doctor and a priest. His aide-de- 

 camp appeared in full uniform, and laughingly told me he was a lieu- 

 tenant in the Peruvian navy, with a major's commission in the army 

 We arrived in time for a good dinner : soup, fish from the Apurimac, 

 beef, poultry, potatoes, yuca, rice, and salad, with pine-apples, chirimoyas, 

 plantains, oranges, and granadillas. The wine made in the valley is 

 sweet and mild, superior to that of Yea ; excellent coffee is grown on the 

 eastern slope of the Andes. Jose hung his saddle-wallets behind the 

 door, for fear the dogs might again eat his bread and cheese. The 

 old man and the mules need rest. We have been forty-five days 

 on the road from Tarma. Upon paying off the arrieros from Andahuialas, 

 I advised them to be more particular with their money ; never to spend 

 it in chicha for themselves before they buy food for their mules, which 

 they promised me should not occur again. When leaving, they wished 

 to kiss my hand — a practice encouraged by the priests and authorities, 

 but particularly offensive to the North American, especially after the poor 

 Indian has faithfully performed his duties. 



August 23, 1851. — At 8 a. m., thermometer, 57°; wet bulb, 55°. In 

 the plaza we find, for sale, maize, barley, wheat, beans, sweet potatoes, 

 white potatoes, chirimoyas, plantains, bananas, oranges, limes, papayas, 

 watermelons, granadillas, and dried figs, in their season ; also peaches, 

 apples, grapes, and cherries. There is a great display of pottery, well 

 made, and fancifully colored. White and printed cotton goods bring 

 high prices ; so do coarse woollen cloths, particularly those of blue and 

 scarlet. The whole population require thick clothing here. The In- 

 dians consume the coarse goods, and fancy large dark bone buttons. 

 The Creoles generally wear broad-cloth. Everbody has a cloak, worn 

 out against the door-post, or at the corners of the streets, where the 

 wearer lounges in the sun. White sombreros or Texan hats are worn 

 during the week, but on Sundays black beavers. Scull-caps are very 



