44 



EASTERN SIDE OF THE ANDES. 



September 21, 1851. — At mid-day, thermometer, 54°. Riding along 

 the ridge to the northward, the road suddenly turned east, and immedi- 

 ately descending, we met with foliage, flowers, and fruit; among them a 

 few intimates — the common blackberry and whortleberry; the fruit 

 large, but very acid. At every step we take the growth increases in 

 size, until, after descending the mountain-side, we are enclosed in forest 

 trees. Our course in winding down being towards the centre of the 

 earth the compass is of no use to us. The way is lined with the 

 bones of mules and horses killed by falling down these precipices, which 

 don't deserve to be called roads. Among the limbs of the trees parrots 

 were chattering with monkeys ; trains of large ants cross our path. 

 This insect is never seen on the top of the Andes. Under a rude shed 

 by the side of the mountain torrent, Cherimayo, we found shelter from 

 heavy rain in large drops. Thermometer, 61° at 5 p. m. There is no 

 pasture for our mules ; they are confined to the path by the dense growth 

 of bushes and vines, and are kept near all night by fencing the track on 

 both sides. Upon inquiring of Leechler the number of inhabitants, he 

 informed me a few men were gathering Peruvian bark in the woods, 

 but it was difficult to tell where they were, as the cinchona trees are 

 thinly scattered over the country. The bark is represented as inferior 

 near the base of the Andes here. v The best quality sells at twenty-five 

 dollars the hundred pounds in the market of Cuzco. 



The regular rainy season will soon set in, when all the cascarilleros 

 (as the bark gatherers are called) carry the bark home. They enter 

 about the commencement of the dry season, or about the middle of 

 May ; roam through the wilderness! When they meet with trees, a 

 little house is built for protection at night, under which the bark is kept 

 dry. The tree is felled by an axe, the bark stripped off, dried, made 

 into small bundles, and carried on the backs of men — who are generally 

 mestizos — to the nearest point at which a mule may be brought. 



This life is one of great hardship ; the workmen are often caught in 

 the forest without a supply of provisions. In case of fever, however, 

 they are well supplied with quinine; but many of them die. The 

 climate is very changeable ; a cold, heavy rain falls, alternating with 

 the rays of a tropical sun. Leechler pointed out the cinchona trees ; 

 the cascarilleros distinguish them at a distance by their bright-colored 

 leaves ; very smooth and light green, with here and there a yellowish 

 leaf. Standing on one side of a ravine, the men count the value of the 

 opposite side, or they climb to the tops of the loftiest trees and survey 

 the country around. The forest trees here are very valuable for their 

 varieties of ornamental woods. Leechler undertook also to give me an 



