•88 



cuzco. 



out — a sixpence for an earthen jugful. The whole affair was a curious 

 mixture, difficult to digest by those unaccustomed to such habits. 

 Many of the ancient Indian customs seem to be allowed ; this has a 

 good effect upon the aborigines, who give preference to cows' horns and 

 chicha over the more expensive requirements of the church. 



From the balconies in the streets of Cuzco flowers were showered 

 upon the heads of the ladies, and the people shouted •Huzza for the 

 new Cuzcanians !" Many families were ready to welcome the lady and 

 her children into the prefectura, and after night she was serenaded by a 

 brass band. We have never seen the moon rise with such splendor as 

 it does over the snow-capped mountains to the east of Cuzco ; she 

 throws her light quietly down over this interesting valley. There are 

 two noises which disturb its midnight stillness— the braying of a jackass 

 and the baying of a dog both seem to wake up as the moon peeps 

 through the silvery peaks. The cocks crow as the moon is eclipsed by 

 a passing cloud. 



The house of a prefect is generally a gay one. The gentlemen meet 

 in the evening to talk over the news of the day, play cards, and so on. 

 There is very little visiting among the ladies of Cuzco except on Sunday 

 after church. They are seldom seen walking in the streets. On Saturday 

 evenings they repair to the plaza to purchase a new pair of shoes, which 

 is the time to see them at most advantage. On these occasions the 

 priests appear with little silver images, standing on one side of a large 

 silver plate ; as the ladies pay the Indians for their shoes, the padre pre- 

 sents the image to be kissed, and the plate receives a donation or church- 

 tax upon the price of shoe-leather. There are very few who kiss the image 

 that do not pay, ''unless it be the second time the priest has offered it on 

 the same Saturday, and then they bashfully decline. On these days 

 poor families send old books, bits of iron, horse-shoes, nails, spikes, bri- 

 dle-bits, and stirrups, or any other article they may want the money for, 

 and the Indian servant sells them for what she can get. There is little 

 wealth in Cuzco ; with a few exceptions, the people are as poor as they 

 are indolent. Some of the more energetic, who own haciendas in the 

 valley, and have mercantile houses in the city, are called rich — that is 

 to say, they have more than they require to live upon. 



The climate of Cuzco, during our stay, was not pleasant ; cold rains 

 water the hill-tops, which, in the morning, are white with frost, and be- 

 ing evaporated, form clouds. Though Cuzco is within the tropics, and 

 the dry or warm season extends from May to September, the people are 

 dressed in winter clothing. When the sun passes Cuzco, on his way 

 south, the rainy season commences ; the drops come down in hail and 



