cuzco. 



83 



snow Hates, and under the vertical sun the people are in mid-winter 

 storms, and require more clothing in what, astronomically speaking, is 

 their summer, than they do in their winter months. Strangers suffer 

 somewhat at first by not watching closely the changes of the tempera- 

 ture, and dressing accordingly. Influenza and rheumatic affections are 

 very common ; many of the poorer classes have small-pox for the want 

 of vaccination. There is a good deal of dropsy, but few cases of con- 

 sumption. 



The Indians use more coca here than elsewhere, and seem to injure 

 their health by chewing such quantities. Those living in the city are 

 thin and miserable-looking, in comparison with the country people. 

 The Indians seem to be much neglected ; when they are sick, they wait 

 patiently until they die or get better. The charges of medical men are 

 high ; Indians cannot afford to employ a Doctor. The native physici- 

 ans are generally the most moderate, and understand the climate the 

 best. There are a few foreigners in Cuzco, among them a French baker. 

 The people seem as fond of talking with him as they are of eating his 

 bread. 



The city abounds with shop-keepers and tailors, who pass their days 

 in the sun. As the twilight commences, the street doors are closed, 

 and the town presents a dark and doleful appearance. Here and there 

 a lamp is hung out in front of eating, government, and gambling houses. 

 The young men play billiards at a sort of club, where the room is de- 

 corated with a likeness of Napolean Bonaparte on one side, and George 

 Washington on the other. A Frenchman keeps the house. 



The French are much the most popular foreigners. , They soon marry 

 a country woman, and adopt the manners and customs of the Spaniards. 

 An Englishman don't manage so well ; one may mistake a Frenchman, 

 who has been in the country a long time, for a Spaniard ; but the 

 florid English face declares his nation at first sight. John Bull seems 

 delighted with an opportunity to speak English, while the French tongue 

 seems slung for Spanish. The Frenchman practises the courtesies and 

 habits of these people ; introduces his wife and all the children to you. 

 He seems settled for life ; the other talks constantly of returning to old 

 England. He is more active, sometimes cultivates the soil, or is en- 

 gaged in mining. Since my return from the Madre-de-Dios, a young 

 Englishman gathering bark, with a party of Quichua Indians, in a south- 

 easterly direction from San Miguel farm, were all murdered by the 

 Chunchos. 



The mail arrives and leaves Cuzco for Lima, and other places, twice a 

 week. There are two mail routes to and from Lima ; one inland through 



