90 



LAMPA. 



When a mule becomes frightened, it is almost impossible for a man to 

 hold on ; its whole strength is brought in opposition to the rider ; and 

 notwithstanding the powerful bit used in this country, it often succeeds 

 in getting away. Jose generally finds something to amuse during the 

 day, his grave countenance making the scene the more laughable. 



The master of the post at the small town of Pucara was a judge. Be- 

 fore our leaving in the morning a case came before him. Two Indians 

 quarrelled about some property, while celebrating the saint's day of the 

 church. They both drank too much cliicha ; then the quarrel took a 

 more serious turn, and they were arrested. Witnesses on both sides 

 entered the post-house ; the men stood up along the walls ; one by one 

 told what he knew about the matter. The women were then called upon. 

 The two parties seated themselves opposite each other, jiear the door. 

 The judge questioned one; her answer brought on a general discussion. 

 They became very violent against each other. The scene became inter- 

 esting. When the Indian women have trouble, they cry and talk at 

 such a rapid rate, without listening to what is said, that the judge de- 

 clared he never could make head or tail of their evidence. The case 

 was postponed. 



There is no dew at night on the puna. Half way between Pacara 

 and Lampa, the river Ayavire turns east ; it is a small stream, about 

 fifteen yards wide. The wind here was up the river, and on the %l\ 

 side, and in the ravines near by, there were a few stunted trees. The 

 small river basin stretched off to the east ; the winds come down over 

 the water and strike the hill there, and nowhere else do we observe 

 such a growth as on the hills near these puna table-lands. 



The town of Lampa has a population of about four thousand. The 

 Indians are very black ; the hot sun burns them in the day, and in the 

 cold nights they are smoked in their houses, some of which have tile 

 roofs, but they are generally thatched with puna grass. Neither the 

 heat of the sun, nor the effect of the smoke, has as yet made their hair 

 curly or woolly. It is worn in one long wig, China fashion. Many of 

 them were hewing stone, and preparing to increase the size of the 

 church, which appears to us very large, even now. 



The sub-prefect was suffering from neuralgia, and many of the Creoles 

 had toothache and colds. Lampa is a sort of half-way house between 

 Arequipa and Cuzco. The trains of mules, loaded with foreign manu- 

 factures, halt here to rest on their way from the coast. 



Our mules were well shod all round for the first time since we pur- 

 chased them in Lima. I made an agreement with the blacksmith that 

 they should not be whipped, in case they refused to stand still. We 



