92 GOLD OF CARABAYA. 



enough to last during the season, as the country is uninhabited and un- 

 cultivated. Specimens we saw were in lumps of from one to two ounces 

 each, and closely resembled the gold of California. I am told that per- 

 sons have lost money by placing too much confidence in the exaggerated 

 reports of the riches of these Carabaya mines. The expense is very 

 great. The daily wages of laboring Indians is fifty cents per day, be- 

 sides provisions. They received twenty five cents per day for building 

 the church in this town, where they enjoy health with their families, 

 and live an easy life. At the mines the climate is hot. 



Those who remain late in the season are in danger of being caught 

 on the east side of streams which are impassable when flooded. From 

 December to May during the year the mines are unemployed ; they are 

 beginning to come out now, Peruvian bark is found in Carabaya. 



November 6. — At G.30 p. m., thermometer, 52°; wet bulb, 45°. A 

 small stream flows southeast by the town, over which is a well-built 

 stone bridge. We keep along the east bank. On the plain to the south 

 we thought we saw a sheet of water, but it was the refraction, which 

 seemed to raise the hills up ; they looked like islands. The country is 

 becoming more cultivated as we" proceed south, and cattle are more nu- 

 merous. We find nearly the same dry, burnt-up vegetation and dusty 

 roads, though the air feels moist enough for green fields of grass. 



Halting at the small adobe-built town of Juliaca, with a large church 

 as usual, our baggage-mules were changed. We spent the night at 

 Caracota, and changed mules again at Panearcolla. To the left of us 

 we beheld the deep blue waters of the great southern lake Titicaca. 

 The east" wind troubled its waters ; the white-capped waves reminded 

 us of the trade-wind region of the ocean. Large barren islands inter- 

 cepted our view ; not a tree nor a bush was to be seen ; the only living- 

 thing in sight was a llama, seeking food among the tumbled-up rocks on 

 the unproductive hills. The scene is wild and deadly silent. Our 

 only view was to the southeast, where we saw tops of islands beyond 

 tops of islands, backed by mountain peaks. 



The wind is cold, and the parching rays of the sun scorch the very 

 skin off. Our green veils are so constantly blown off* our straw hats that 

 we pocket the troublesome things. The Indians on the road afe very 

 polite. We are told that it is a custom among them to salute those 

 coming from Cuzco first, thereby showing respect for their ancient 

 capital. 



There are great differences in the faces of the Indians, particularly 

 among the women. Some of them resemble negroes, with thick lips, 

 flat noses, and a stupid expression of the eyes. Others look bright, in- 



