PUNO. 



93 



telligenf, and lively. From the cheek-bone the face narrows uniformly 

 to the chin. The nose is small, straight, and sharp-pointed; the lips 

 thin. Should any have Manco Capac's blood, I doubt if they know it. 

 Some of them are very Shanghai in appearance, while others are taller. 

 The^generally walk together, with the old women behind. The men 

 keep to themselves, and are remarkable for their family likeness. All 

 seem serious, well behaved, and are always deeply interested in whatever 

 they may be employed, let the occupation be ever so trifling. They 

 never seem to be in a hurry. They commence their work before sun- 

 rise, and get through with it by sundown, provided there is no chicha 

 interference, which sometimes delays them on the road till after dark. 

 In such cases, the chances are, there have been some unpleasant feelings 

 washed away. 



I saw two Indians meet who had a difficulty. One was very much 

 affronted, while the other, aware of having done a wrong, wanted to 

 make amends. He bought a cup of chicha, and begged the other to 

 drink it. For some time he refused, until the wife of the other per- 

 suaded him. The moment it was taken, their faces changed to smiles, 

 and the trouble was forgotten. When there is ill will among them, 

 they are so quiet, and their hatred so deep rooted, that it is only by 

 witnessing a settlement that one is convinced of their strong feelings. 

 They are truthful, honest, and respectful, one towards the other ; they 

 have no affectation. Disinterested kindness and politeness a^e found 

 among them in purity. We often amuse ourselves watching the love- 

 making scenes, as those of marriageable age travel along the road. 

 Exceeding modesty on meeting others invariably accompanies both the 

 man and the girl. The men laugh at and juke the man, while the old 

 women scold the girl, and seem everlastingly opposed to matches. 



Winding round a hill, and descending a ravine, we come to an arched 

 gateway, and enter the city of Puno. It is a dry, dusty, uninteresting- 

 looking place, of about five thousand inhabitants, and is the capital of 

 the department of the same name, containing a population of 245,681. 

 The town is situated about a quarter of a mile from the west shore of 

 Lake Titicaca. The ground towards the lake is a flat, green swamp, 

 with a long stone wharf jutting out into the water, at the end of which 

 are a few washerwomen, and some balzas laying at anchor. As we 

 entered the plaza, the captain of the police inquired whence we came, 

 and politely directed our way to the prefectura. 



There were many officers in uniform, and soldiers lounging about 

 town. There was a warlike appearance here. Two extra battalions of 

 troops had been lately sent from Lampa, complaints being made by the 



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