100 



PASSPORTS. 



little use in going among people that we cannot talk to. He says that 

 his countrymen have often told him these people are very savage, or 

 they might speak Spanish or Quichua ! Richards tried English, but it 

 was of no avail ; they only laughed ! Their manners, customs, dress, 

 and general appearance is nearly the same as those of the Quichua 

 tribes. The women are a little more chunky and rather better featured ; 

 they are cheerful, and they look up more — the usual effect of beauty 

 all the world over. The men chew less coca, are stronger for it, and 

 have a much m©re healthy appearance than the men of Cuzco. As far 

 as I can see, there is very little sickness about Lake Titicaca. 



The governor of the town sent to the post-house for our passports ; 

 they seem to be very particular with persons going south ; he read, signed, 

 and returned it by the postman. Inquisitive people go to the governor's 

 house on an arrival, and after he reads the passport he passes it round. 

 This is the way the arrivals are published here. On one occasion I un- 

 intentionally offended a roomful of men, by pocketing my papers as 

 soon as the proper person had read them. It is the custom for travel- 

 lers to present and read each other's passports on the road ; you thus 

 tell your nation, occupation, whence you came, and your destination — 

 a very good foundation for a travelling conversation. Through the 

 United States charge d'affaires in Lima, passports from the government 

 of Peru to all prefects in the departments through which I passed in 

 South Peru overtook me. Passports from the supreme government are 

 rare in these inland towns, and are read with the more interest. 



The post-houses are becoming more respectable ; some of them are 

 papered, and near the bed and on the seats pieces of carpets are laid. 

 The postmen are white Creoles, with pretty wives ; and the arrieros are 

 dignified as postillions. Passing through the towns of Ocora and Ylave, 

 we put up at Juli, which is situated, like the other towns along the lake, 

 on a knoll with a perpendicular bank, rough and rocky, standing out 

 into the water. The lofty Nevada de Sorata is in full view, said to be 

 25,380 feet above the level of the sea. 



November 17, 1851. — At mid-day, air 51° ; lake water 65° ; wind east, 

 right off the snow ridge opposite ; temperature of a spring 54°. After 

 leaving Juli the road turned among the hills to the right. We passed 

 the night at Tambilla post-house, which stands alone at the base of the 

 hills between us and the lake, inhabited by the postman, his postillions, 

 and some Indian women cooks, who made us mutton soup, with pota- 

 toes. The plain is alive with cattle, sheep, llamas, horses, mules, and 

 jackasses. The pasture is somewhat fresher. The wind draws through 

 the valley from the north and is uncomfortably cold. 



