LA PAZ. 



107 



After showing our Peruvian papers, an Indian was sent with us to the 

 custom-house, and the police officer directed the man to show me the 

 house of the gentleman to whom I had letters of introduction. 



The most tiresome and troublesome part of the journey is the day of 

 arrival in a large town, where we generally remain long enough to rest 

 and pick up information. There are no hotels to which a traveller may 

 go and make himself independently comfortable. Walking into a man's 

 private house, bag and baggage, and handing him a letter of introduc- 

 tion, which plainly expresses that the bearer has come to make his 

 house his home, is the custom of the country. We entered the most 

 elegant house I saw in South America. 



The gentleman of the house was not at home ; he was engaged su- 

 perintending the Indians at the gold mines and washings of Tipuani, 

 situated north of La Paz, on a tributary of the river Beni, and to the 

 east of the Sorata mountains. His daughter received the letter, smok- 

 ing a large cigar, and invited us to join. Her husband was prefect of 

 the province of Yungas, where is gathered the best cinchona bark. As 

 it was Saturday, and 4 o'clock, the officers had left the custom-house, 

 and the baggage could not be examined before Monday morning. Not- 

 withstanding the lady of the house sent our letters to the prefect, and 

 asked that we might have our clothing. We were in a house with four 

 young ladies and no gentleman, so there was a poor chance of borrowing. 



The party was a good deal sun-burnt, dusted, and harassed over the 

 hot plains since leaving Cuzco, and all well tired out. Richards suffered, 

 though he stood the travel better than was expected. Jose's beard had 

 grown, and he had pulled an old white hat about so much to get it on 

 the sunny side of his head, that he at once applied for part of his wages 

 to purchase a new one. When we arrive, Jose always goes at once to 

 pay his respects to the lady of the house, and through him a general 

 sketch of our duties and characters are obtained. He is so polite, and 

 of such an obliging disposition, that he seems to attract attention 

 wherever he goes. He is fond of travelling, and, for so old a person, 

 bears his part well, sleeps sound, and enjoys good health. 



La Paz, the commercial metropolis of Bolivia, has a population of 

 42,849. It is the capital of the department, which has a population of 

 90,662 Creoles, and 295,442 Aymara Indians. The small stream of 

 water flowing through the city at the bottom of the ravine may be 

 stepped across without wetting one's feet. As it dashes down through 

 the Andes to the eastward, other streams join it, and after swelling 

 out and gaining the base of the mountains, it is called the river Beni, 

 which flows, in a northeast direction, through the territory of Bolivia. 



