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AYMARA INDIANS, 



retired, and the postman, a fine-looking old Aymara Indian, hat in hand, 

 made a speech, in a grave and earnest manner, to which they all listened 

 with silent attention. The speech was responded to by a long blast 

 from the wind instruments and a few heavy taps on the drums. Then 

 the postillions, one by one, made short speeches, and were answered in 

 the same way. The women again appeared, each bringing with her a jar 

 of ehicha, which they served out in cups, giving to each individual as 

 much as he could drink, which was no small quantity, for the morning 

 was cold. The music again struck up, and the women again joined in 

 the dance. One of them came out with her sleeping "wawa" slung to 

 her back, which was soon blown up, and commenced a laughable dis- 

 cord ; but not a smile could be discovered in any of their faces ; neither 

 did the woman stop till the dance was ended, when she swung the 

 child round in front of her, where it found cause to be quiet. 



As we could not understand the language or the meaning of the 

 speech, nor the propriety of chicha being introduced into the religious 

 service, we supposed the intention was to serenade the women, but were 

 left in doubt ; for they seemed to be so serious, formal, and earnest that 

 it could scarcely be a frolic. At first we were disposed to appropriate 

 it to ourselves, but gave in on the appearance of the ehicha. 



These Indians are very polite and attentive to us. We find no diffi- 

 culty in getting what we want, notwithstanding Jose is as perfectly 

 ignorant of Aymara as ourselves. When we were ready to leave, the 

 old Indian took out of his own pocket, and laid upon the palm of his 

 hand, the amount of our bill for the night. Being paid, he nodded his 

 head, smiled, and uttered something that seemed to us satisfactory. 



The town is small and wretched, both in its external and internal 

 appearance. Not a foot of the country in sight around it is cultivated. 

 The principal production seems to be chicha ; but the maize it is made 

 of is brought from the Quebradas to the eastward. 



To the west of Calamarca, between the Desaguedero river and the 

 Cordilleras, near the town of Benenguala, in former days, were worked a 

 number of silver mines. Seven hundred mouths are open and filled with 

 water, having all been abandoned in the present day, though they are 

 reported to be rich. To the east of Calamarca, in the province of 

 Inquisivi, five silver mines are worked, and one hundred and sixty stand 

 idle. Near the town of Araca four gold mines are worked, and many 

 more exist. 



Crossing a dry, rocky country, we came to where the plain was 

 covered with green cedar bushes, about two feet high ; the dry, dusty 

 road was made more cheerful by cattle, sheep, and llamas crossing our 



