COCHABAMBA. 



133 



height, with an aj^of respectability about the place we little expected 

 to find. The streets crowded with people of all sorts and sizes, and 

 nearly all seemed to be busy. The large plaza was decorated with fine 

 old willow trees. 



Gaining the post-house we found a miserable woman and child its 

 only inmates. Our baggage was piled up in one corner of the room. 

 The child raised a terrible dust in sweeping the room and driving out 

 the chickens, who laid eggs in the corners, and roosted on the centre 

 table. Our postillions bade us farewell, and our mules were put in a yard 

 close by. The woman cooked some chupe of mutton and potatoes. We 

 were tired, sunburnt, and not a little disgusted with our situation. 



On a platform, built of adobe, we spread our blankets. After an un- 

 successful attempt to get to sleep upon this bed of sun-dried "bricks, I 

 got up and struck a light that I might see some rude, uninvited in- 

 mates of the posta, who were making themselves too familiar with us, 

 and found them to be "chicken lice, ticks, bed bugs, and fleas. It was 

 difficult to tell which species predominated. There was no rest for the 

 weary that night. Richards rolled and tossed in his sleep as though his 

 bricks were baking. I generally watch Jose for information upon points 

 which he has had some experience with. Looking out upon the bright 

 starlight night, I found the old man sleeping soundly in the stable yard 

 at the feet of the mules. He had shaken his cold blankets in the cold 

 air and rolled himself in them, where the insects would not go. 



After a long time daylight came to my relief ; with an application of 

 cold water and a change of clothes, the horrible little man-teazers were 

 gotten rid of. 



After breakfast I walked through the city. The streets are laid off 

 at right angles. On the south side of the main plaza stands a large 

 cathedral, and opposite to it the palace occupies the whole side of the 

 block. It is remarkable for its handsome appearance, being much 

 superior to the palace in Lima. The ladies are also beautiful. In the 

 centre of the plaza is a fountain fed by water from a snow peak on the 

 ridge in sight. From the appearance of the houses and stores, there 

 certainly must be wealth here for an inland town. 



Strolling along looking at the people, I came to a corner where there 

 was an unusually neat-looking store, and in the doorway stood an intel- 

 ligent-looking gentleman, who seemed a stranger to this country. He 

 was a German. The house belonged to a Frenchman, of whom I had 

 heard. As soon as they found out I came to make an examination of 

 the rivers, men were called to fetch our baggage and mules, and we 

 were at once comfortably quartered. The French gentleman had been 



