152 



ANCIENT HOUSES. 



and there a wooden cross, decorated with flowers. In one corner are 

 earthen and copper pots or kettles, with a few large stones, between 

 which the fire is^made. In another corner is usually found a squadron 

 of white, black, or yellow Guinea pigs, grunting and burrowing in the 

 ground floor to the great amusement of the aboriginal children, who are 

 very partial to them when converted into chupe. 



The ancient habitations of the Indians of this valley are rotund, built 

 entirely of moistened clay and stone, with but one entrance. These 

 houses are going out of fashion, though many of them are used at the 

 present day. There are a number of ruins about the valley, supposed 

 to be of the style of ancient times. The art of building archways was 

 an accomplishment of the Aymara tribe, of which we - found no signs 

 near the Inca capital. 



The Indian ploughs a strait furrow with a team of oxen, although he 

 knew nothing of such animals until the Spaniard came. He rides a 

 young, unbroken horse bare-backed, sticking so close to the hide that 

 his legs chafe the hair off; yet his forefathers had not a donkey to prac- 

 tise upon. The Indian is desirous that his children shall be taught. A 

 fine-looking old man wanted to know if I would have his son to bring 

 up, informing me of his good qualities, and saying that Jose had told 

 him I was the sort of man to whom he should give his child. He evi- 

 dently was not pleased at my declining his offer, notwithstanding Jose 

 explained to him that my home was far off to the north ; to which he 

 replied, No importa ;" that was no objection. 



A number of lakes are in the valley and on the mountains in the 

 neighborhood of this city. During a dry time, no frogs are heard ; but 

 the moment the thunder roars, or the lightning flashes, they sing songs 

 of thankfulness ; the valley is made gay with their voices after rains. 

 The wild ducks bathe in the calm waters, near the willow trees which 

 shade the Indian's hut, and is also adorned with sweet orange blossoms, 

 while the dry barren hills are baked into crust, and the sheared sheep 

 look half starved for want of pasture. 



The clover or lucerne that fattens horses, mules, horned cattle, and 

 jackasses, is not relished by the sheep and llama. The latter animal is 

 seldom found here, and unless forced down, never seeks the climate or 

 grasses of this valley. The horse as well as black cattle thrive, and the 

 hog is at his ease. There are few bees ; we observe ants on clear days 

 providing against wet weather; they are very exclusive. Humming birds 

 are numerous ; blackbirds, and three or four kinds resembling the cedar 

 bird and sparrow, are seen. An ugly and very ill-natured hawk resides 

 on the sides of the hills among the cactus and the doves. 



