158 



BALLS— -FROLIC. 



tree are small. The quince grows to an unusual size in the valley, and 

 the trees are loaded with fruit of golden yellow. 



The merchants are keeping back their remittances to the Pacific on 

 account of numerous robberies reported in the snowy regions. 



The young gentlemen give a ball every month in the palace, and per- 

 formances at the theatre, which was once a church. On both occasions 

 the families of the city are brought sociably together. The balls are 

 believed to produce political concord, and are very gay. A Sucre lady 

 inquired if " Cochabamba girls dressed in good taste?" The Creoles 

 seem anxious to know the opinion strangers have of them. The North 

 American midshipmen used to say, the height of their enjoyment was 

 to dance with the South American girls. The beauty, manners, and 

 grace of the ladies here cannot be disputed ; they are naturally gifted 

 with a pleasing flow of conversation, keen-sighted, and witty. Their 

 bright black eyes flash beneath an irresistible and modest smile ; their 

 long, black hair is neatly arranged abroad, but at home it usually hangs 

 plaited over the shoulders and breast. They appear more proud of 

 small feet than of lovely eyes and snow-white necks. In walking they 

 carry themselves straight, and show their graceful figures to advantage ; 

 their motions are slow and stead}? - . A bloom on the cheek gives them 

 a fresh, healthy appearance as they ride spirited horses by the side of 

 their lovers, through the gardens of Calacala, before sunrise in the 

 morning. 



At midday, on the 12th of May, 1852, we mounted and followed a 

 train of nineteen loaded mules towards the east. Our baggage was re- 

 duced one half upon each animal. By law, the arriero may charge full 

 price in descending the eastern side of the Andes for half the load carried 

 on the roads of the table lands. The train followed a white mare with a 

 bell hung to her neck. Four arrieros were accompanied by a number of 

 women, carrying jars of chicha. The party seemed to have been drink- 

 ing over night, and bent upon a frolic. They succeeded in seducing Jose, 

 who rode along with our tent pole on his shoulder, and hat pulled over 

 his eyes, ordering about men and women, until I was called upon to 

 settle a difficulty between him and the chief arriero's wife. Richards 

 was carefully guarding Mamore for fear we would lose him. After 

 some trouble in keeping the baggage mules from escaping up the cross 

 streets, we bid farewell to Cochabamba. On the river bank the women 

 seated themselves in a row to take the last dram with the men who 

 were gojng with us. They shouted, sang, and danced; then shaking 

 hands all round, the arrieros called to their mules, and we all moved 

 along single file on our way home through the river bed, which was 

 now dry again, the wet season being just over. 



