•174 



ROAD FROM RIO JANEIRO. 



in the Argentine republic, in latitude 2*7° south, through the rnguntainous 

 regions to Lima. She is the admiration of all good judges, from the 

 arriero down. The reason she has kept in good order, while the mules 

 throughout our route, from Lima to Oruro, look so miserable, is because 

 Jose constantly gives her salt, and I observe it is not the general custom 

 of the country to do so. The good old padre we met in the montaiia of 

 Cuzco was an exception. He called his cattle from the woods to offer salt. 

 The moment they heard his voice the bulls came rushing out as though 

 they were angry with him. It was a beautiful sight to see the fierce- 

 looking animals halt in front of the old gentleman, robed in his clerical 

 garments, and gratefully lick salt from his hands ;. afterwards rubbing 

 their horns against his legs by way of thanking him. He did not seem 

 to like this much. It may be mentioned in confidence, padres in these 

 countries sometimes go about without trousers. 



I met an intelligent gentleman, Mr. Mauricio Bach, who had spent 

 some years in the province of Chiquitos, and to him I am indebted for 

 much information. 



Mr. Bach travelled by land from Rio Janeiro to Bolivia ; he was fresh 

 from his own country, and was so much impressed with the value of the 

 lands, productions, and climate of Chiquitos, that he remained there some 

 years, during which time he had a fair chance of judging it. He told 

 me that the route through Brazil is inhabited by some savage Indians ; 

 on the plains herds of cattle are raised, and there was much wood. He 

 passed over with a large party, who were prepared to protect themselves 

 from the unfriendly Indians ; but at the present day the mail from Rio 

 Janeiro reaches Cuyaba every month. 



The town of Santiago, in the southern part of Chiquitos, is situated 

 on a hill of the same name, and has a population of 1,380. The climate 

 is delightfully fresh, health}', and compares well with Chiquisaca, with 

 the difference that the air is not so dry in Santiago ; it is free from all 

 troublesome insects also. The country is well watered. The streams 

 which flow into the river Oluquis contain gold, silver, signs of cinnibar, 

 and a suspicion of precious stones. In the forests are ornamental woods 

 and medicinal plants. To the south of Santiago the country is thickly 

 wooded with a great variety of palm-trees. In the plains the pasture 

 affords a plentiful supply of cattle and horses already there. The soil 

 is so fertile that the products of both the torrid and temperate zones 

 may be produced, from chocolate to the wheat and sugar crops. On 

 the river Agua Caliente Mr. Oliden, in the year 1836, established a 

 town, and called it Florida, over the ruins of the old settlement of San- 

 tiago, where the Jesuits first established themselves in this wilderness. 



