190 



YURACARES HUNTING. 



in the stream, and with an eye that seems to penetrate the depths, 

 shoots ; his arrow is drawn up with a breakfast for one, sometimes a 

 foot in length. 



As the Indians do not inhabit this region, the game is undisturbed, 

 except on rare occasions. The animals increase and multiply without 

 being frightened by the sound of a rifle or the noise of a shot-gun, ex- 

 cept when the white man appears. 



The Yuracares Indians are half-civilized, or, more properly speaking, 

 are half friendly to the white man. We may pass among them without 

 danger. The Creoles are careful to treat them kindly, well knowing 

 they would silently draw their bow-strings if they did otherwise. Cor- 

 nelio was exceedingly polite ; gave them part of what they asked for, 

 and promised more when they brought us game, which appeared reason- 

 able to them, so they came anxiously after us. We were equally as 

 polite. I was obliged to be unusually particular, as one of them inquired 

 after the health of the "Patron." After they had looked at us, it was 

 plain they distinguished a difference between us and the Spanish race. 

 One turned to the other and quickly disclosed his discovery. They then 

 drew near to examine the North Americans. When Richards remarked 

 "We were among the savages at last," they all laughed and talked 

 among themselves in quick succession. They examined our boots and 

 gloves ; pointed to my stirrups, which were English, and differed from 

 those used in the country, which are formed of painted blocks of wood, 

 with a hole cut in one side- to slip the foot into and protect the toes 

 against rocks,. The Creoles prefer this stirrup because it provides against 

 rain and mud ; but they are clumsy, particularly in the woods, where 

 they are constantly catching in the trees and bushes, that I do not think 

 them an improvement. The mountain saddles with high backs and 

 pommels are indispensably necessary on the eastern slope of the Andes ; 

 but on the table-lands and along the roads, among the Cordillera, the 

 plain saddle is more confortable, though probably it is not so safe. 

 Cornelio uses nothing. but his bedding, over which he slings his saddle- 

 bags attached to a strap, with two great wooden blocks slung to each 

 end, and a crupper to which he often turns and holds on as the mule 

 jumps down a steep place in the road to the rifk of the animal's tail. 



On the evening of the 21st of May, we sat straight in the saddle, the 

 mules walked leisurely along over a level road to the bank of the beauti- 

 ful river San Mateo, flowing swiftly to the northward to join its sister, 

 the Paracti, which runs east. • The stream was from sixty to seventy 

 yards wide, with an extended rocky bed, which shows that during the 

 rainy season it is a large one, though less rapid than the Paracti. 



