EMBARKATION ON CONI CREEK. 



205 



rivers to the Atlantic with enthusiasm. In Cochabamba the whole pop- 

 ulation have been aroused to the importance of the enterprise. 



When the rivers are swollen in the low lands, the arms of the canoe- 

 men have not power to propel their vessels against the current. Trade, 

 for half the year, stands still ; human strength is not equal to the re- 

 quirements of the trade that is carried on. 



There are supposed to be at least ten thousand silver and gold mines 

 abandoned in this country; one- third may have been exhausted, and 

 the remainder have been left because the miners struck below the water- 

 line. 



Respectfully taking off our hats to the gigantic Andes, we push on 

 in our little canoe. As the men dip their paddles in the water we glide 

 rapidly along with the current of Coni creek. After being tossed up 

 and down on the mountains for a year, the change is enlivening. We 

 feel this water-carriage is put in motion by the All Powerful, in whom 

 we have placed our trust and confidence in a long journey through the 

 wilderness towards our homes. 



The Indians suddenly began to work hard at their paddles ; the fine- 

 looking old captain talked to the crew sharply, and we went dashing over 

 rapids at a most furious rate ; the waters roared against the great trunks 

 of trees that stuck up in the shape of snags ; the logs were in con- 

 stant motion, like sawyers ; the channel was narrow ; one little mistake 

 of the pilot would have dashed us sideways among the snags, and our 

 canoe must have rolled under. Every man's eyes seemed, for the mo- 

 ment, half a size larger, for the reduced crew of the heavy and long 

 canoe had to exert themselves to the utmost of their strength to manage 

 and keep her clear of danger. 



Our cargo was bulky — cakes of salt brought her down so deep in the 

 water that she moved sluggishly. Richards, seated on the baggage in 

 front, guarded Mamore, who was unaccustomed to the water, and it was 

 with difficulty he could be kept from jumping overboard. 



Coni creek is not navigable for a steamboat ; the lands on both sides 

 are flat and thickly wooded with a rich growth of bamboo ; these lands 

 are all overflowed in the wet season, and therefore are uninhabitable. 

 Temperature of water, 74°. We saw a small lion or puma on the bank, 

 besides a number of wild turkeys, and shot a wild goose. The banks 

 break down perpendicularly with rich black surface soil one foot and a 

 half thick. 



Our canoe was soon launched into the waters of the river Chapare, 

 one hundred yards wide, and where we entered it twelve feet deep ; we 

 have scarcely lost sight of the Andes. The canoe was stopped that we 



