CANOE LIFE. 



207 



baggage a piece of corn husk, cut it into squares, and rolling tobacco up 

 fine, make the husk serve as a wrapper for their cigars. 



Each one carries a little spunk in the hollow end of a cow's horn, which 

 indicate cattle ahead somewhere, and with a piece of flint rock strike light 

 with the back of a knife. We noticed that the crew carried small bags 

 filled with flint rocks, which they gathered about Vinchuta, and were 

 taking down to the province of Mojos for sale. We have just passed the 

 rocky formation, and find the soil alluvial for over thirty feet. 



We camped on a low sand beach on the west side of the river. The 

 crew gathered a number of canes from the brake, and the captain made 

 a frame-work, over which an India-rubber poncho was hung ; underneath 

 the leaves of the cane were spread as a protection from the dampness of 

 the soil on which the bed was laid, and over it a musquito net. 



The crew made a house by stacking cane leaves and branches on the 

 side of a ridge-pole, like farmers make a shed of corn fodder tor cattle. 

 The open side of this shed was facing the east. A fire was soon made, 

 and our disappointed governor proved to be as good at cooking as the 

 schoolmaster at eating chupe. The only provision the ex-governor had 

 made was a bladder filled with what sailors call slush, a few cakes of 

 chocolate, a pot, and some bread turned green with mould. The In- 

 dians pealed yuca, and we supplied rice and goose for the chupe, and 

 sugar, and tin pots for the chocolote. The schoolmaster came unpro- 

 vided with grub; it is presumed he was usually "boarded out." 



The Indians gathered around their fire, while the captains <5f the boat 

 saw the patron's bed attended to. When the chupe was made, the cook 

 politely informed the captains, and after they had seated themselves by 

 our tin basin, the others gathered round. All in turn talked and joked 

 as they enjoyed their suppers. The crew elect their own captains ; the 

 most active, energetic, and intelligent man was chosen, without regard 

 to age. Should he prove incapable, or misbehave, he is broken and 

 placed inline seat of the paddle-man selected over him. Every man 

 obeys his orders, and is particular in his mode of addressing the captain 

 and his mate, or rather a second captain, who helps to steer the canoe, 

 and generally encourages the men to keep good time with their paddles 

 by stamping his foot upon the floor of the canoe where he stands behind 

 the cabin. The captain only stamps his foot on particular occasions, 

 when the crew work unusually well, laying out their whole strength 

 when he speaks to them. The captains do very little but steer the 

 canoe, and attend to the wants of the person who employs them. Every 

 man attends to his duty according to the usages of their service. They 

 take turns at cooking or bailing out the boat, and while one or two 



