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MIDNIGHT WALK THROUGH THE PLAZA. 



des, at 8 o'clock, on clear nights, the boys of the town kneel by the 

 large wooden cross in the centre of the plaza, and sing a hymn before, 

 the inhabitants retire. A band of music accompanies their voices. As 

 the bright moon lights up their world, these little boys shout their 

 verses of thankfulness for the blessings of the day just past, and pray 

 that God will protect his people in their sleep. There was something 

 agreeably impressive in these forms of the church to attract the atten- 

 tion of the Indians. This daily service was pastime for them ; their true 

 natures were worked upon, and we found them performing such religious 

 duties in a willing, grave, sincere manner, while the rules permit them 

 after prayers to frolic. We have never seen more sober faces than 

 among these Indians, as they walk to and from church ; nor have we 

 ever heard a more hearty roar of laughter at a bull-fight than in the 

 plaza of Trinidad after mass. 



Marriage ceremonies are performed by the priests, according to Cath- 

 olic form. Before the appearance of the Jesuits, such were not known 

 among the Indians, except in their own hearts. 



We had been detained some time in Trinidad. I became much 

 troubled at the idea of being fastened up amidst disease during a long 

 rainy season, doubting by which route we were to find an outlet to the 

 Atlantic. Kept awake after midnight; to drive away thoughts of the 

 morrow, I got up and walked out into the plaza. The night was clear 

 and moonlight ; the only noise at first heard was that made by the 

 bats — the air was filled with different species of these night-birds, flying 

 in all directions, feeding upon musquitoes ; the tops of the houses were 

 covered with them ; and so clear did they keep the air, as they darted 

 close about me, that there were no insects left to attack the inhabitants, 

 except those protected from the bats in the bed-rooms of the families. 

 I supposed the whole population was sleeping, but it was not so. As I 

 walked slowly round the square, when I came to a Creole's house, silver 

 and gold coin were heard to jingle on the inside of the door-way. The 

 silent dealing of cards was going on ; bets were being made by count- 

 ing out the coins. The Creole portion of the population were gambling. 

 As the comisario struck one by the bell at the cathedral, the working 

 population slept. Indians have no time for such occupation ; their 

 games are played at the weaving-frame and sugar-field. The supply of 

 bread-stuff is drawn from the laborer of the plains of Mojos ; the silver 

 is chiselled from the rocks of the mountains by the Indians ; and yet 

 the most intelligent people of Bolivia ask how it is there is so much 

 e progress and improvement in other parts of the world and so little in 

 Bolivia. 



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