290 



MADEIRA FALLS. 



during the day is not easily estimated. At one time we go at the rate 

 of fifteen miles an hour, and then not more than one mile in half a day. 

 This fall is not less than fifteen feet. Large square blocks of stone stand 

 one upon another in unusual confusion. The boat was paddled through 

 for a quarter of a mile, and by passing half the baggage out over the 

 rocks, she was sledded and floated through narrow channels close along 

 the eastern bank. The whole bed of the river, as we stand at the foot 

 of the fall and look up, is a mixture of rough rocks laying in all posi- 

 tions on the solid foundation of granite, surrounded by foaming streams 

 of muddy water. While we loaded our boat again at the foot of the 

 falls, Titto discovered some Indians approaching us from the woods. 

 They came upon us suddenly, frombe hind a mass of rocks, with bows 

 and arrows in their hands. Don Antonio had warned me before I left 

 him to be on my guard when the savages came up in this way. He 

 said when they send women and children to the boat in advance, then 

 there is little chance of a difficulty with the men; but when the women 

 and children are kept in the rear, and the men come with bows and 

 arrows in hand, the signs are warlike. We were, therefore, prepared. 

 We, however, recognised our friends, the Jacares. An old chief brought 

 a woman along loaded with roast pig and yuca. She carried a deep, 

 square willow basket on her back, suspended by a strap of bark cloth 

 round her breast. The chief and his two men were dressed in bark 

 cloth frocks and straw-hats, while the only thing on the woman's back 

 was her basket. One hand bore an earthen pot, which she also offered 

 for sale. Titto traded with the party, and they gradually became much 

 more easy in their manners towards us. For the want of an interpreter, 

 I could not make out what customs were observed among them. These 

 Indians bear the name among Brazilians of great thieves. They, how- 

 ever, appeared to be perfectly satisfied when we left them with the 

 reasonable exchange. The passion expressed by one at Pedro for not 

 giving him all his fish-hooks for a few arrows rather leads us to believe 

 that, if they had outnumbered us, they would have been troublesome. 

 We gave them no opportunity to treat us unkindly, for we were exceed- 

 ingly polite, and so well armed with all, that they very justly acted 

 their part in a spirit of reciprocity. There is great difficulty in know- 

 ing how to meet the savage. Treat him as a civilized man, and his 

 better feelings are touched. It won't do to approach him indirectly, 

 letting him see that, while willing to trade, there is a prudent readiness 

 for a fight. They took a polite leave of us by shaking hands all round. 

 We introduced the custom, which they seemed to like, though the 

 stiffness of their elbow joints proved they did not understand the 



