6 



Many specimens of a brown-black cockroach were sent in the bottle, and some few were found 

 still lurking amongst the canes received. The species is very similar to, if not altogether 

 identical with, S. antillarum, which was described last year from a specimen found in St* 

 Vincent. 



(6.) Dactylopius calceolarice, Maskell. 



In the sheathing bases of the leaves I found a few specimens of a mealy bug, which appears to 



be identical with D. calceolarice. It has been previously found on sugar-cane in Fiji, but is 



new for Jamaica. 

 (7.) Earthworm. 



At the roots of the cane two earthworms were found. The largest is over three inches long when 

 alive, colour purplish grey, except the first 22 rings or segments, which are pink. The 

 choette are in eight longitudinal rows, arranged as regards the distance of the rows from one 

 another, much like those of Pliitellits perrieri Benham, or a Microscolex. No clitellum is 

 developed, so I suppose the specimens to be immature. 

 (8.) Tridlula sacchari, Ellis & Everhart. 



Inside the dead sheathing bases of the leaves on the smaller stems, I found black spots which 

 prove to be T. sacchari. Hitherto the fungus has been found on the culm, but having com- 

 pared the present specimens with part of the original lot, and examined the spores or conidia, 

 I have no doubt as to their identity. 



Conclusions. 



It seems probable enough that the Diatrcea is at the bottom of the trouble experienced. This 

 insect, and the remedies for it, are fully discussed in the Botanical Bulletin for April 1892. The 

 living roots did not appear to be seriously attacked, but no doubt the Scaraba^id larvae do some damage, 

 nibbling at them. The Curculionid larva, living in the dead roots, is harmless. The Telephorid larvae 

 are beneficial creatures, and may attack the Diatrcea caterpillars. (One of this family is a known 

 enemy of Diatrcea in Louisiana.) The cockroaches probably are attracted by the juice of the rotting 

 canes. Tbe mealy-bug, so far it goes, is harmful, but I do not think it is a serious trouble. The 

 earthworm is of no particular importance. The Trullula, as here seen, seems harmless ; and it seems 

 still open to question whether it attacks sound canes, notwithstanding apparent strong evidence to the 

 contrary from Trinidad. 



T. D. A. COCKERELL, 



Institute of Jamaica, 

 Kingston, Feb. 7, 1893. 



INSTRUCTION IN THE CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE VINE. 



Mr. Thompson of the Botanical Department has given demonstrations on the treatment of mature 

 vines at Collins Grreen, by permission of S. L. Schloss, Esq., on the treatment of yonng vines at the 

 vinery close to the East Lodge, Kings House Grrounds, by permission of His Excellency the Q-overnor, 



Young vine plants of the best English kinds will be ready for distribution in April. The charge 

 •will be 2d. each plant, delivered in Kingston. 



Mr. Thompson has drawn up the following notes on the present treatment of vines in continuation 

 of those in Bulletin, No. 38, for those who are unable to attend the demonstrations. 



"All vines which have been kept dry till now, as I recomended in November of last year, should 

 now have the growth of last year's wood well ripened. The main stem of the vine should be kept as 

 straight as possible. The side shoots on the main stem should be cut back to a plump bud close to 

 the old wood of the main stem. It must be understood that the fruit of this year will be borne on 

 the wood of last year. 



"After pruning, vines grown on a flat arbour can be left as they are, but vines gro«rn on a trellis 

 should be laid or tied down to a level with the bend in the main stem ; by so doing you give the viae a 

 better chance to break its buds evenly all over the vine, instead of just breaking at the top of the shoot, 

 as is often the case when the vines are simply tied up to the trellis. 



"The roots of the vines should not be watered till about a week after the pruning has been done ; then 

 the vines should have a good soaking of water, not a few bucketf uls but a watering equivalent to about 

 six inches of rain, so that the whole of the roots will get well watered. It is of the utmost importance 

 that the vine should have a good soaking for if the water does not reach the end of tbe young roots 

 then 5'ou are preventing the roots from having a chance to grow ; and if all the roots are not in a fit 

 condition to grow, you cannot expect the buds of the vine to break well. 



"Besides the watering at the roots it is of the utmost importance that the vines should be sprinkled, 

 over with a good syringe or the hose. This should be done at least twice a day, and if it can be done 

 several times a day, the buds of the vine will break so much better. The syringing should be stopped 

 as soon as the buds have all broken, and started to grow. 



After or before watering the vine-borders, the borders should have a few inches of good stable 

 manure put over them. The manure will prevent the sun from absorbing so much of the moisture and 

 help to keep the roots cool. 



If the copious supply of water is given when the vines are started, they will not need any more 

 water till just as they are showing for flowering, then they should have another soaking like the first. 



Anyone with young vines wnich have made growth from six to twelve feet, should prune them 

 now. If they are intended for growing on a trellis, the vine should bs cut back to a good bud about 

 three feet from the ground. If the vines are intended to be grown as standards out in the field, then 

 cut them back to a good eye about six inches from the ground ; and in both casea allow only one main 

 growth to grow this year." 



