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hanging in a curve between his hands. Where choice is possible, 

 although oldish cuttings will grow pretty well, it is best to have the 

 plants of recent growth ; in fact, growing shoots, cut off close to where 

 they spring from the parent vine, are preferable. At their point of 

 origin the nodes for some distance are close together, and though roots- 

 will strike from any joints, they have a natural tendency to do so quicker 

 at the shoot's base. As to the length of cuttings to plant, opinions dif- 

 fer ; but there can be no question that the longer cuttings produce 

 cropping plants sooner than the short ones. If a 2 or 3-foot branch is- 

 planted, the shoot it gives is invariably more slender and slower of 

 growth than would be that from a 6-foot cutting, and up to 10 or 12 

 feet every advantage lies with the longer plants, except the additional 

 expense. 



The question as to whether cuttings of that length are to be planted 

 whole or divided into two or three plants should be settled by their 

 cost. It is usual here to loosen the soil with a hoe where vanilla is to 

 be planted, and bury the end, laid horizontally, an inch or two in the 

 earth. Quite as good a way is merely to press the lower part of the 

 plant into the soft soil until it is flush with the surface. On sloping 

 land loosened soil washes away sooner with heavy rain, and in such 

 situations it is best to leave the ground quite undisturbed. In any 

 case the leaves on that part of the vine which rests in or on the ground 

 are cut off fairly close to the stem, and an arm lull of leaves, fern, 

 grass, or forest sweepings laid on top to the depth of 3 or 4 inches, 

 for a couple of feet around the plant. Its roots will not need to be 

 mulched for a greater distance than that for some months to come, and 

 to cover a large area would be useless. As new top dressings are 

 laid on, which must be done when the first supply rots down and 

 becomes thin, these can be gradually extended to allow of more root 

 spread, till the limit of 4 feet radius is reached. If well covered, the 

 roots do not run much ; only starved vines run far with their roots, 

 seeking nourishment ; where this is plentiful they mat in and beneath 

 it. Being entirely surface feeders, should any make their way beyond 

 the cover they can be gently lifted and tucked under the decaying 

 leaves, etc. ; but this is a hint that the plant needs a new supply of 

 top dressing. The number of joints laid on or in the soil will vary 

 with the length of the plant, but should not be less than three for this 

 mode of planting, while for long cuttings six or seven joints are 

 needed for a quick start. 



If of sufficient length, the free end of the planted vine is hung 

 through a fork of the supporting tree, but it is also advisable to tie it 

 in two or three places to the tree to hinder swinging and charing. The 

 material used for these ties here is a fibre called vacoa* which rots in 

 about a year, by which time the plants should have tendril-like roots 

 enough to steady themselves. When once properly planted, the cut- 

 tings will need little or no attention for some months, but when the 

 growth becomes vigorous the shoots must be looked after. Such of 

 them as have grown clear of their supports are hitched up and, if long 

 enough, hung through one of the forks. An occasional tie here may 

 also be necessary, but in general a leaf or two of the growing part can 



* Obtained from a species of screw pine, Pandanus utilis. 



