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NOTES CONCERNING BUDDING ORANGE TREES. 



Those who are taking up Orange culture may proceed in various 

 ways to increase and supplement the trees they already possess. They 

 may bud mature trees of worthless kinds, either when they are growing, 

 or after transplanting; they may grow their own sweet seedlings; or 

 they may bud sweet or sour seedlings. 



The reason for budding mature trees is that a crop is secured at a 

 much earlier date, but the disadvantages are that the yield is not so 

 large, nor is the tree so long-lived, as in the other cases. 



The sweet seedlings are said to grow into larger trees and give a 

 more abundant yield than any other ; but there is no certainty that the 

 fruit will be as good as that of the parent tree. 



A scur seedling budded is said to give an earlier crop, but smaller 

 than a sweet seedling budded or a sweet seedling unbudded. 



This has been the experience in Florida, but so far has not been 

 proved yet in Jamaica. 



Advantage fyc, in transplanting. — Budding on mature trees may be 

 done either without moving them from where they are already growing, 

 or after transplanting them. 



The advantage in transplanting is that the trees can be placed in 

 regular rows exactly where they are wanted, so long as the soil is 

 favourable. 



The disadvantage is that whereas a tree budded where it stands will 

 bear in two years, it will not bear a crop for 3 years, if transplanted. 



Transplanting— -When transplanting a tree for budding, saw off the 

 top about 5 feet from the ground. It will afterwards be cut down to 3 

 feet, but it is well to leave the extra length at first to use as a lever in 

 loosening it from the soil. 



Cut off the roots all round with the spade at a distance of 2 to 2 J feet, 

 from the trunk. 



The tap-root should be cut off to a length of about 2J feet, if the soil 

 in the Orange grove is deep. If a marly or clay subsoil or rock ap- 

 proaches the surface, the tap roots should be cut off close up to the roots 

 which branch away from it. Any broken roots should be cut away 

 and the ends trimmed. Tar should be applied to all the larger cuts. 

 The roots should be shaded from sun and dry air, and be kept moist 

 whilst out of the ground. 



Cutting top of stump. — The stumps are to be sawn off to 3 feet from 

 the ground. Great care should be taken to cut them quite smooth. It 

 is well to have the cut made sloping and on the north side. The wood 

 and bark must not show any signs of separation, but be cut round 

 smoothly with a sharp knife. If any space be left between the bark 

 ■and the wood, water will settle, decay will commence, and very soon 

 insects and fungi will begin their attacks. A little tar should be 

 sm eared on the cut surface. 



Holes. — The holes in which the transplants are to be placed should 

 he about 5 feet wide, and 10 or 12 inches deep with a deeper hole ia 



