82 



cools. To accomplish this quickly hang the piece of cloth, folded in 

 convenient foim before waxing, over a small, strong stick which is held 

 by an assistant. Then take two similar sticks of wood and holding them 

 parallel on either side of the cloth press them firmly together and pull 

 downwards, squeezing out the superfluous hot wax. The cloth should 

 then be spread out until cool, after which it is ready to be torn into 

 strips of the desired size, that is, one-fourth to one-balf inch wide and 

 from 10 to 12 inches long. The cloth may be torn into strips before it 

 is taken into the field, or it may simply De torn into convenient-sized 

 pieces and afterwards torn into strips in the field as desired for use. 

 The latter is probably the most convenient way. Using waxed cloth 

 for wrapping effectually excludes moisture, prevents the bud from dry- 

 ing out, and the work can be done more quickly than with string, as the 

 strips cover more surface and do not require tying, the wax serving to 

 hold the cloth firmly in place. It may therefore be recommended as 

 far preferable to any other wrapping material. 



How TO BUD.* 



Budding is a simple process, consisting in inserting a bud of a desired 

 variety under the bark of ^he btock in such a way that the freshly cut in- 

 ner bark of the bud comes in close contact with the layer of growing wood 

 (cambium) ot the stock. The bark is closed over the inserted bud and 

 the stock wrapped with waxed cloth, as described, so that the bud is 

 firmly pressed against the growing wood. If the operation is properly 

 performed, the tissue of the bud and stock soon fuse together and the 

 bud may be forced to grow. 



In all varieties and stocks of citrus fruits the process of budding is 

 practically the same, the method commonly employed being that known 

 as shield, or eye, budding. I he bud is inserted in the young stock 

 near the ground. Previous to the severe freezes of the winter of 1894- 

 95 the general practice was to insert the buds 12 to 18 inches above the 

 ground, but since then the tendency is to bud as near the surface of the 

 soil as possible, so that the trees may be readily banked with the earth 

 above the bud to protect against injury Irom freezes Most of the buds 

 are now inserted from 2 to 6 inches above the soil. In sections where 

 foot rot is abundant and sour-orange stock is used as a preventive mea- 

 sure the buds should be inserted from 12 to 18 inches above the soil, so 

 that the sweet-orange wood will be above the influence of the disease. 



All leaves and limbs which would hinder the proper wrapping of the 

 buds should be cut away with a sharp budding knife. The use of sharp 

 tools is the secret of success. A vertical cut about IJ inches long is 

 made at the point where the bud is to be inserted. At the base of this 

 a horizontal cut is made, so that the two cuts presents the appearance of 

 an inverted T. The cuts should not be deep. The aim should be to 

 merely cut through the bark, but no injury will result if the cuts are 

 rather deeper. The lower edges of the bark are slightly raised with the 

 end of the knife blade to facilitate the insertion of the bud. Ihis may 

 also be accomplished by giving tl.e knife an upward turn aftor making 

 the horizontal cut. Tvow, take a stick of bud wood in the left hand and 

 cut out a bud. Formerly tl.e portion of the wood cut out with the bud 

 was removed, but experience has shown that this is entirely unnecessary. 



* See also Bulletin, December, 1895. 



