83 



The upper end of the bud is inserted under the slightly raised ends of 

 the bark and t^radually pushed upward until all portions of the cut face 

 of the bud come in contact with the wood of the stock. If in proper 

 condition for budding, the bark of the stock readily separates, allowing 

 the bud to be pushed upward into position. The bud is now ready to 

 wrap. Take a strip of the waxed cloth prepared as above, and begin- 

 ning slightly below the horizontal cut wrap tightly round the stock 

 over the bud in a spiral manner, each turn slightly overlapping the 

 previous one. The wax holds the cloth in place and makes it possible 

 to draw it very tight. When the vertical incision has been entirely 

 covered, turn the end of the strip slightly downward over the wrapped 

 portion, to which it adheres more firmly than it would to the bark, and 

 no tying will be necessary It is better to wrap from below up war 1, 

 as in this case each turn overlaps the other in the right direction to 

 prevent water running down tiie stem from entering. Nurserymen 

 usually wrap over the bud, covering it entirely. Some, following the 

 practice commonly used in other fruits, leave the eye of the bud ex- 

 posed. This, however, is more troublesome and does not succeed so well. 



In some cases where bud wood ot^ certain varieties is difficult to se- 

 cure, it may be desired to use buds from the young angular wood. 

 This may be used with good results if the stock to be budded is grow- 

 ing rapidly and is in a succulent condition. In this case the method 

 of cutting and inserting the bud is slightly different from that already 

 described. In cutting the buds the stick is turned slightly to one side 

 so that as the bud is cut off the eye lies on one side instead of in the 

 centre of the bud It is only by cutting the bud in this way that the 

 cut surface is made wide enough to hold the bud firmly in position. 

 For inserting these buds an incision is made in the bark. The bark is 

 slightly raised on one side with the point of the knife and the bud is 

 slipped under in a lateral direction, the eye remaining in the vertical 

 slit. The bud is then wrapped. 



UNWRAPPING THE BUDS. 



In from ten to twelve days the buds will have united with the stock 

 and may ttien be unwrapped. In early spring, when the weather is 

 cool and the growth slow, the wrapping should be left on from fifteen 

 to twenty days, while in the summer, when the weath^^r is warm and 

 the growth rapid, ten days is usually a sufficient length of time. 

 However, it is impossible to say definitely how much time should elapse 

 before the wrapping should be removed as the wood of the stock should 

 never be allowed to grow over the buds It should not be removed 

 until a light greyish line of new tissue can be seen foiming around the 

 edge of the incision made in inserting the bud. A little experience will 

 enable one to tell at whut stage it is safe to unwrap. Under ordinary 

 conditions from twelve to fifteen days will give good results, but in 

 very dry weather in the summer, when growth is slow, it may be ne- 

 cessary to leave the wrapping on for a longer time. Some ten days 

 after budding an examination should be made ol the number of the 

 buds and if they are found to be well healed on, the wrapping may be 

 taken off, but if not, the wrapping should be replaced and allowed to 

 remain some time longer. If the wraps are allowed to remain too long 

 the wojd of the stock is liable to grow over the buds and greatly hin- 

 der their pushing. 



