85 



rubbed off before they have grown to any size, as their growth detracts^ 

 from the development of the bud. 



The best time for transplanting orange or other citrus trees is prob- 

 ably during December [in Florida,] although they may be transplanted 

 in January or February or during the rainy season. By December buds 

 put in early in the spring have reached a convenient size for trans- 

 planting into the grove. 



Dormant Budding. 



Putting in buds which are intended to remain dormant during the 

 winter, or dormant budding, as it is called, is usually done in October or 

 November. The process is exactly the same as described above, except 

 that the tops are allowed to remain standing until the following spring. 

 They are lopped in the usual manner the latter part of February, or 

 just before the spring growth starts. The advantage of dormant bud- 

 ding is to secure the first spring growth in the bud, which is the largest 

 growth of the year. 



Sprig Budding. 



This is a form of budding frequently used on old stocks, where 

 the bark is thick, in changing the variety or replacing a limb acci- 

 dentally broken off. A scion about 4 inches long is selected, and 

 the basal end sharpened by a slanting cut on one side. A curved oblique 

 incision is made in the bark, the lower edge of which is slightly raised 

 with the point of the knife, and the end of the scion inserted and pushed 

 between the bark and wood in an oblique direction until the freshly cut 

 surface of the scion comes in contact with the growing wood of the 

 stock. The scion is held firmly in place by the bark of the stock, and 

 the use of grafting wax or wrapping of any kind is said, therefore, to 

 be unnecessary. 



Grafting. 



Grafting has not been extensively used in citrus culture in Florida, 

 but as there is an increasing tendency to place the point of union 

 between stock and graft, or bud, near or below the surface of the soil, 

 this method will probably be more used in the future. There seems to 

 be no good reason why it should not be adopted wherever desirable. 

 Grafting should be done in January or February, while the trees are 

 still in a dormant condition. The scions must be taken from thoroughly 

 mature wood of the last season's growth. Round and thornless twigs 

 should be selected if possible, although the somewhat angular wood may 

 be used if thoroughly mature 



Cleft Grafting. 

 Cleft grafting, which is one of the simplest methods, may be used to 

 advantage in place of budding in nursery trees where it is desired to 

 place the point of union below the soil. A scion about 5 inches long is 

 selected and the lower end sharpened to a wedge shape by two slanting 

 cuts IJ inches long on opposite sides. The young stock to be grafted 

 is cut or sawed off slightly below the surface of the soil and a cleft 

 made in the stock. If the stock is larger than the scion, the latter 

 must be inserted at the side, so that its cambium layer (the growing 

 layer between the bark and the wood) on one side will come in contact 

 with that of the stock. After the scion has been pushed down into 



