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Tfork. The soil ii warmer, is better supplied with moisture, ther« 

 is no stagnant water, and root action is rapid and constant. Before th« 

 vine is planted the soil should be well broken up to the depth of eigh- 

 teen to twenty-four inches. The deeper and broader the tillage — th« 

 larger the root run, the ampler will be the food supply and th« 

 more vigorous your vine. 



Some well rotted stable manure, wood ashes, broken bones and 

 lime rubbish added at the time the ground is prepared will be of last- 

 ing service. Top dressings of manure in the form of heavy mulching 

 during active growth are very useful. They keep the roots moist and 

 warm and also add to the food supplies. The less the soil is after- 

 wards disturbed the better. "Where stable manure is used constantly 

 a light dressing of lime every three or four years will be of benefit. 

 Stable manure forms humus, and humus in the soil adds to its water 

 holding capacity, increases its warmth, helps it to hold elements of 

 plant food and to convert fertilizers into a form assimilable by the 

 plants. A good root run with plenty of food and drink at hand, 

 will not only give you a healthy fruitful vine but will keep it so. 

 Badly nurtured vines are exposed to numberless perils from both insect 

 pests and disease, which healthy vines escape. 



1 take it for granted that none — now that young plants of good 

 varieties of grapes can be bought for a nominal sum, will lose time 

 and spend labour in raising their own vines from cuttings or eyes. 

 Having everything in readiness when you plant your young vine let 

 the surface of the soil for from 12 to 18 inches round it be about 3 to 

 4 inches below the surface of the surrounding ground — let the collar 

 of the vine — i.e. where the junction of the new growth is made with 

 the old wood be just beneath the surface of the soil — if possible let no 

 old wood be visible. As the vine makes growth this slight depres- 

 sion will come in useful both as a convenience for mulching and water- 

 ing as well as keeping the new roots at home. Little by little about 

 an inch at a time the soil can be raised round the vine until it is level 

 with the surrounding surface — into this new soil the vine will send 

 out a multitude of rootlets and the old wood from which the shoot 

 originally grew will gradually perish and you will get what is practi- 

 cally a vine from a bud which is the very best possible. 



So soon as root action begins and new growth shows ; a slender 

 twiggy stick about five to six feet long should be given it to climb up. 

 Without this artificial aid the vine will show possibly two or three 

 growths — not one of them of any value and it will sprawl all over the 

 ground. On whatever side you insert the stick the vine wiU find it, 

 lay hold upon it, and then will not be long in finding its way to the 

 top. 



By this time there will be developed on the new growth a series of 

 sublaterals. These must b« stopped at the first leaf and as new 

 growth shows, be kept stopped. They must not however on any ac- 

 count be taken entirely out — their province is to feed aad develop 

 the main growth and if they are removed the cane will probably ripen 

 when little thicker than an ordinary lead pencil whilst if left on, it 

 will be many times stouter. All vine growers are agreed I think as 



