13 



vigour, and in order to cut it immediately above one of the wood buds it may Lave to be left at greater 

 length, or cut shorter than would be otherwise advisable, this dopending on the position of the wood buds. 



The distance between the bearing shoots on a branch may be 15 to 18 inches. 



Pruning may, therefore, be reduced to the following : — 



1. Removal of all superfluous and weakly wood. 



2. Shortening the bearing shoot to encourage the growth of a succession shoot at its base. 



3. Removal ot shoots that havo borne fruit, cutting them off close above the succession shoot at the 

 base of each. 



Disbudding. — This consists in the removal of buds in a young state. If all the young shoots formed 

 were allowed to grow, they would soon become excessively crowded, therefore only those should be allowed 

 to remain for which there is sufficient space. This operation, however, must be performed by degrees, for if 

 too many buds are removed at once, those that are allowed to remain will not be able to at once receive 

 all the extra sap, stagnation will ensue and prove injurious to the health of the tree. 



Thinning the fruit. — If the tree is in a healthy state there will generally be more fruit than can properly 

 be matured, and it must be thinned. Weak trees should only be allowed to carry light crops, and on weak 

 branches fewer fruit than on more vigourous ones. If the trees aro allowed to carry too many fruits, the 

 latter will be small and thin-fleshed. In removing the fruit, care should be taken not to tear the bark off the 

 shoots, and the smallest, of course, should be dispensed with. 



W. Harris. 



GENERAL HINTS ON THE PRUNING OF DECIDUOUS FRUIT-TREES IN 



NEW SOUTH WALES. 



(Re-printed from the "Agricultural Gazette of New South Wales.") 



The objects to be obtained by pruning in New South Wales will be practically confined to a proper 

 shaping of the tree. Pruning to produce fruit which is so necessary in England will seldom be required here, 

 as our trees are naturally so prone to produce fruit that it should be more the object of the fruit-grower to 

 reduce bearing wood, and thus decrease the burden of the tree. 



This would take the place in part of thinning out the fruit, a very necessary operation where quality is 

 desired, and one that it pays well to give thorough attention to, as it greatly improves the size and appearance 

 of the fruits ensuring a ready sale at good prices, even when the market is glutted with ordinary fruit. 

 There is always a market for anything really first-class. 



Pruning to restore vigour to the tree is only applicable to old trees in which the root is still sound and 

 vigorous, and able to carry another top. 



The form of pruning best adapted to Nevv South Wales conditions is a modification of what is known aa 

 the " vase" system on a low head. 



This form of pruning* properly carried out gives a tree strong branches, having a general upright 

 tendency, that is able to carry its fruit without assistance, and that is effectually shaded in the centre from 

 sunburn or scald. This latter consideration is of great importance, and, if neglected, it leads to serious loss 

 in a hot climate. 



The height at which the tree is to be headed will be influenced by location, as it has been found by 

 experience in Califonia that the higher the prevailing summer temperature, and the greater the aridity, the 

 lower the tree should be headed, and what applies there should apply here. 



The advantages of low heading are accessibility of fruit, ease of pruning, symmetry, solidity, decrease of 

 danger from winds, and greater facility to approach the tree with the horse in cultivation. Where the trees 

 are properly trained with low heads and obliquely-rising branches, one can get much nearer to them than in 

 the case of trees headed high, with horizontal or drooping branches. These are, however, not all the advan- 

 tages of low heading. Another very important thing in a hot climate is the shading of the trunk and 

 prevention thereby of sunburn, as well as shading the ground around the roots. It is also found that 

 branches starting from near the ground make a more vigourous growth than when the tree is headed higher. 



In order to get trees into the shape most desirable, it is necessary to commence on the young tree as soon 

 as it is planted out. In choosing trees from the nursery, alwajs select healthy, clean-grown trees — those 

 with a stem free from laterals for the first 2 feet being preferable. Do not attempt any pruning before 

 planting out, nor is it necessary to do any pruning in the nursery except it is to remove superfluous laterals 

 in order to faciliate cultivation whilst in the nursery and packing the trees when dug. 



Having thus secured good trees and planted them out, the first and most important step in the formation 

 of your tree is taken. Whatever idea the grower may have as to shaping his tree, it must be cut back when 

 planted. Lifting from the nursery has destroyed a part of the root system of the tree, and the top must be 

 reduced accordingly. The grower who dislikes to sacrifice the fine top, will sacrifice future growth and 

 vigour by retaining it. The tree may struggle through and regain vigour, but it will be for years smaller 

 and less vigorous than if it had been properly cut back at first. I cannot emphasise this point too strongly, 

 as on it depends, to a very large extent, the future vigour of a tree and its capacity to bear fruit. 



The height at which the head should be formed will vary, as I havo previously mentioned, with climatic 

 conditions ; but, as a general rule, I prefer to hoad at a height of from 15 to 18 inches. 



Having decided on the height, the next thing is to remove the whole of the top, taking care to cut just 

 above a strong bud, pointing in the direction of the prevailing wind, as this will tend to brace the tree 

 against it, and keep an upright growth. The cut by which the top is removed should be as clean as possible, 

 aud if possible, it is an advantage for it to slopo from rather than to the sun. 



Having cut the tree to the desired height, allow the top three, four, or five buds to grow to their full 

 extent, taking care that they come out at oven distances along the stem, so as to got a properly balanced head ; 

 and it is better for them not all to start from the same height, but for each succeeding branch to bo 2 to 3 

 inches lower than the preceding ono, as this will tend to make a much stronger tree, and one less liable to 

 split apart. 



