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Horticulture. 



their growth is as required, provided due attention can be given them. The 

 length of the cutting should be 5 to 9 inches with 3 or 4 nodes or joints. 

 However, they cannot be too short if sufficient buds are present. 



The cut must be made horizontally close beneath a bud with a sharp clean 

 knife. Some kinds strike more readily when slit upwards for about half an inch 

 after being cut across. As many leaves as possible should be left, as the more 

 there are the quicker will the sap descend and form roots. The petioles of 

 those cut off at the base must be cut as close as possible without injuring 

 the bark as they are apt to decay and destroy the cutting. The lower buds 

 should be cut or rubbed out of the kinds that shoot from the buds under- 

 ground. The shoot is frequently torn off with a heel, i.e., a small portion of 

 the older wood from which it sprang, which is smoothed off with a sharp knife 

 and then inserted. This is often successful where the ordinary method fails. 



The temperature of the soil the cuttings are inserted in should on no 

 account be less than that in which the parents are growing, rather let it be 

 slightly in excess. Many plants strike in ordinary garden soil, and in sub- 

 stances such as brick-dust, &c, but the former should have plenty of sand mixed 

 with it. The best composition is certainly pure sand about half an inch thick 

 placed over soil in which the plant thrives best. For pots the bottom 

 should be well drained with potsherds, over this place a layer of leaves 

 or moss, then sandy loam, and the top half inch pure sand. Insert the 

 cuttings near the edges. They cannot be inserted too shallow if made 

 firm. The most expeditious mode of inserting in beds is to cut a shallow 

 trench, lay the cuttings in, and press the soil well around them. For pots the 

 dibber is generally used and is most satisfactory. Water must be given judi- 

 ciously in small quantities and often. As much light as possible should be afforded, 

 some kinds bear more than others. Shade when necessary and admit more light 

 as they become rooted. 



PROPAGATION" BY DIVISION. 



This is very simple, the plant being merely taken up and divided into 

 numbers with roots to each. The Daisy and "Fever-few" are good examples. 

 Perennials of a shrubby nature may often be induced to strike root, after 

 division, by heaping up soil among the branches. Many instances of this could 

 be given. 



Propagation by slips is generally classed with this mode, the term being 

 used when herbaceous perennials are split up into slips with roots to each. 



Propagation by Bulbs, Corms, Tubers, Rhizomes and Offsets is easily 

 effected. Nearly every bulbous-rooted plant requires to be managed in its own 

 particular manner, but there are a few rules of general applicability. Most kinds 

 require to be separated (some annually, others every two or three years) when 

 their leaves die down, and stored in dry sand, the growth afterwards being 

 better if moisture is to some extent evaporated, though of course not altogether, 

 This allows of their being kept for planting till convenient times. In all cases 

 where it is necessary they should be moved when in a state of rest. The 

 length of time they maybe kept out of the ground varies with different species, 

 and depends to a large extent on the manner in which they are stored. The 

 rest causes them to produce stronger plants and consequently better flowers. 

 There are exceptions to the rule of " drying off," as an example the corm of 

 the Cyclamen should never be allowed to become absolutely dry at the roots, 

 though a season of rest is certainly needed; this should be afforded in a cool, 

 moist atmosphere keeping the roots damp. Tubers, such as the Potato, may be. 



