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root and stem, up to about one third of 

 their height in a mixture of adhesive 

 earth and fresh farmyard manure. The 

 dip is good for the roots, and keeps off 

 the rabbits for the first year: some mix- 

 ture of quassia-juice or other offensive 

 bitter will help in bad cases. 



Wind-waving. — Wind-waving is 

 almost as great an enemy as rabbits in 

 the case of tall saplings, but was stopped 

 in a simple way by cutting off all the 

 side shoots. Strong young forest trees 

 i o feet high so treated showed no sign of 

 "wind- waving," and grew well the first 

 year. The leading shoot was not cut 

 back, simply the side shoots which catch 

 the wind. This is done before the trees 

 are planted, and need not be repeated, 

 as the vigorous young saplings soon 

 come to anchor in the earth and are then 

 less liable to wind-waving, histead of 

 the heavy labour of staking we made each 

 young tree a stake. 



Native Trees best for Replanting 

 Old Woodland. — In selecting trees for 

 this end, it is best to choose native trees, 

 and for the most part Oak, Ash, Beech, 

 Chestnut, Poplar, Sycamore, and White 

 Willow. If we go beyond these it should 

 be only for European and North Ameri- 

 can trees of proved vigour as forest trees. 

 By planting these we have a chance of 

 varying our ordinary woods,and we shall 

 vary the wood best by planting each kind 

 in colonies or masses, the trees inter- 

 mixing with others on the outside of the 

 masses. The planter should take advan- 

 tage of every incident of the ground and 

 variety of soil, and plant in accord as far 

 as he sees his way — tree Willows by the 

 streams, Beech on the dry hills, the Oak 



in cool soils. The market value of tim- 

 ber should rarely influence the choice, 

 as a few years often make a marked 

 difference in the value of timber, and 

 the best way is to plant the trees that 

 make best growth in each class of soil. 

 It would be wise in all cases to study the 

 soil, climate, and other conditions that 

 may affect the growth of trees, as some 

 of these conditions are often not found 

 out until we have made costly plantings. 

 Even in our islands there are vital con- 

 trasts as regards tree-life — chalk hills 

 and poor hot sands; stiff wealden clays; 

 wide peat bogs ; uplands with a light 

 rainfall and hills and plains with a heavy 

 one. Thus there are hills bare of trees 

 for ever, and within sight of them, hills 

 of the same altitudes thick set with our 

 finest native trees. The best time to do 

 the planting is as soon as we can after 

 the cutting of the underwood, and as the 

 preparing and clearing of this usually 

 takes the whole of the winter, spring, 

 and summer, we cannot plant until the 

 following autumn, and do well if we get 

 the trees in before Christmas. 



Replanting Woods without Grub- 

 bing. — So far as possible we should re- 

 plant underwood without grubbing ; a 

 practical way if we baffle our animal 

 enemies, as the underwood itself gives a 

 canopy of leaves until the young trees 

 provide their own. But costly as grub- 

 bing is, it is worth doing now and then, 

 and in certain places, especially if we 

 wish to plant evergreen trees. These are 

 usually much better for being planted 

 small, and therefore are not so well fitted 

 to fight their way in underwood. In one 

 case a slip of underwood came quite near 



