ROSES AND ROSE GARDENS. 



173 



into lengths of 4m. to 6in. and trimmed off close below an eye, but by far the most 

 valuable form is that of Fig. 3. 



In the case of cuttings while still in leaf, it is not advisable to remove the foliage, 

 except it be the lower leaves to give a clear stem for insertion. Dibble the cuttings into 

 a compost of sand, leaf soil, and turfy loam in equal proportions, using a 5^-in. pot, and 

 thoroughly drain this. The cuttings should be made firm, be well watered at once, and 

 stood in a propagating case or deep box over which some squares of glass can be placed. 

 A partially shaded position must be found for them, and if they get at all dry, give another 

 thorough soaking in preference to overhead sprinkling. In from six to eight weeks they 

 will have formed a ball of white substance — callus — at the base, and some of them will 

 have produced a few roots. Give them a little higher bottom heat if possible, but still 

 keep them quite close and avoid any suspicion of drought or excessive dampness. When it is 

 found they have rooted, gradually remove the glass and expose to the air, after which, 

 turn them out of the cutting-pots and repot into the same class of compost, this time 

 placing each into a single pot — a convenient size is 2jin. across the top. Thoroughly water 

 once more and replace in the case or box, keeping them quite close until it is seen that they 

 have taken to the new soil, after which gradually expose and grow on as will be advised 

 under the heading of " Pot Roses." 



Ripened cuttings of Roses may be made in the autumn and treated exactly the same 

 as will be described when dealing with " Stocks and their 

 Preparation." 



Rose eyes, in the same condition as that recommended 

 for budding, can also be rooted freely if taken and inserted 

 as shown in Figs. 4 and 5. This method will need no more 

 explanation, except to say that they require the same soil and 

 treatment as the half-ripened cuttings, but are better if given 

 a gentle bottom heat as soon as callus is formed, and when 

 about a sixteenth of an inch of silver sand is spread over 

 the surface of the pots. Either of these methods may be 

 adopted when Roses are wanted upon their own roots. 



Preparation and Selection of Stocks.— This is 

 of great importance, for if the wrong stock is chosen for a 



to * FIG. 5. 



Rose, or one indifferently prepared, no after culture is of any 



avail. For standards, the common hedge Briar is used. The Briars are collected during late 

 autumn, the stems cut off to about the same height as the future Rose stem is to be, and 

 the rough roots trimmed rather hard. It is better even to split the stem away, leaving only 

 a small portion of the older root as a heel, than to have a coarse knob of old root. 

 Younger knobs may also be cut back much harder than is generallv practised. They 

 should be planted at once, in a fairly stiff soil, and at least 4m. deep. In all cases of 

 stocks it is better to plant them somewhat thickly, lift the Rose the first season after 

 its maiden growth, trim the roots carefully, and replant into their permanent quarters. This 

 saves space, blanks in the beds, and also the somewhat rough and unsightly appearance 

 of stocks during their first season. Nor do stocks need so rich a soil as will be beneficial 

 to the future Rose; indeed, they are better without, as a coarse-growing stock will 

 frequently flood the bud with too much sap and swell so rapidly as to completely smother it. 



Standard Briars may be planted 4m. apart in the rows, which should be 3-J-ft. 

 asunder. Tread them up firmly, especially after a severe frost. When young growth breaks 

 in the following spring, rub off all but two or three of the growths placed about the height 

 the stem of the future Rose is desired to be, never allowing one branch to be directly 

 beneath another. 



Dwarfs are obtained from three distinct stocks, viz., the De la Grifferaie, Manetti, 



