ROSES AND ROSE GARDENS. 



175 



and Briar, in both cutting and seedling form. The first two, and cuttings of Briar, are 

 made up late in the autumn, ripened growth of the current season being used and cut 

 into lengths of Sin. to ioin. In all of these the lower eyes are carefully cut out, and 

 only two or three at the top left. Even one is sufficient. With ripened growth of Roses, 

 however, the eyes should not be cut out; the reason, when preparing stocks, is to avoid future 

 suckers, but in the case of Roses upon their own roots these would be the most valuable 

 growth. Insert the cuttings into a sandy loam, taking out a trench some 6in. or so in 

 depth and setting the cuttings at the back' of this, 3m. from each other. Turn over more 

 soil, until another row can be set in 15m. from the first. Continue this until the whole 

 are inserted. Hoe between them during the following spring and summer, and plant out 

 for budding upon early in the spring. Seedlings are raised from heps, which should be 

 placed in sand as soon as gathered, kept free from mice, and rubbed between the hands 

 to separate the seed early in 

 February. Sow in boxes of 

 light soil, or in a cold frame, 

 transplanting them the second 

 spring. Any that are as large 

 as a cedar wood lead pencil 

 will do to bud upon the ensuing 

 summer, as they swell more 

 quickly than other stocks. 



Consideration should be 

 given to the matter of distances 

 at which to plant the stocks. 

 If a few be placed ift. apart 

 in the row, and the rows 2ft. 

 apart, that will suffice for 

 medium and weak growers. 

 But with such rampant-growing 

 varieties as Gloire de Dijon, 

 Ulrich Brunner, and others, a 

 third more room will be needed. 



When the stocks are 

 lifted there will be several pieces 

 of side roots growing from 

 where the eyes were removed. 

 These should be cut off 

 closely, and also the coarser 

 ones of all other roots. Trim back the tops to within two or three eyes. Always plant 

 dwarf stocks very shallow, and draw some of the surrounding soil around their base as 

 protection. Unless planted shallow, it is almost impossible to work the Rose bud as low as 

 is desirable (see Fig. 2). Previous to inserting the bud, draw the soil away, and you 

 will have a moist easily lifting bark, and be able to get the bud well upon the crown 

 of the roots. 



The question of what stock's to use is mainly dependent upon the soil and variety 

 of Rose to be placed upon them. The Manetti is a capital stock for most Hybrid Perpetuals, 

 Bourbons, and a few of the Hybrid Teas ; but it is almost fatal to the weak growers 

 of either section, and should never be used for the Teas and Noisettes. It does not so 

 much matter with Roses in pots, as here the coarser-growing roots are confined. The 

 Manetti is earlier in blooming, and plants worked upon it will generally be a week 

 or two ahead of others in the same position. It is suitable for light and medium soils. 



